Prabal Gurung and Philip Lim at the Fashion Asia Hong Kong Forum

Dec 4, 2024 at 9:11 PM
In an era marked by unprecedented upheaval in the fashion industry, Fashion Asia Hong Kong's recent forum, aptly titled "Fashion Challenges," has brought to the forefront crucial discussions. The usual agenda topics such as business leadership, retail, innovation, and the media were interwoven with the significant role of Asia in the design sector. From how designers are reshaping the landscape to strategies for nurturing the next generation of creative talent, these aspects took center stage.

Unveiling the Asian Fashion Landscape and Its Challenges

Asian Forces: Shaping Style and Identity

One of the most renowned Asian-American names in fashion, Philip Lim, made a significant appearance at this forum. He shared his insights during a panel discussion on Asian Forces and the importance of shaping style and identity. After stepping down as the creative director of his eponymous brand, Lim candidly discussed the difficulties Asian designers face in gaining recognition and the lack of representation in leadership roles. He emphasized that in the fashion world, equity is often skewed, despite the numerous Asian designers present. "Even though there are so many Asian designers in the industry, we're still dealing with the fact that there are no Asians at the big houses," he stated.Two decades ago, when Philip Lim first started in New York, he was part of an Asian-American wave that revolutionized the industry. This was a powerful moment that left a lasting mark on American fashion history. However, as with any trend in fashion, it shifted and evolved. Since then, there hasn't been the same level of growth as initially expected. But Fashion Asia is playing a crucial role in amplifying Asian talents. Each year, it showcases its 10 Asian Designers to Watch initiative, highlighting young talents who may one day achieve similar success to Lim. This year, names like Ya Yi, Junte Kim, Oude Waag, and Ruohan are vying for their place in history.

Exhibiting Past Winners and Promoting Chinese Design

The following day, an exhibition was held to showcase previous winners who are making waves in the industry. Feng Chen Wang and Windownsen, led by Fengchen Wang and Sensen Lii respectively, affirmed the importance of representation on the global stage during their sessions. Shanghai Fashion Week's Lv Xiaolei also spoke with retailer Tasha Liu about the significance of creating a holistic ecosystem to promote Chinese design both at home and abroad.

Embracing Transformation: The Asian Voice

Another prominent speaker at the event was the Nepalese-American designer Prabal Gurung, who is now the vice chairman of The Council of Fashion Designers of America. He has been a strong advocate for the Asian voice since starting his label 14 years ago. During his talk "Embracing Transformation," he explored alternative ways of storytelling and encouraged individuals to define success on their own terms. After the session, Gurung was optimistic about the future of Asian design, stating that a "shift towards Asia" is inevitable in the next two decades. He believes that those at the top should build a revolutionary and inclusive fashion industry that supports creatives from different parts of the world. "I would say this. I think it's crucial for anyone who has might and power, access, and infrastructure, to reflect and think about why, if they're benefiting from these countries, they're not supporting them," he said, highlighting the moral aspect.

Closing with Lim's Asian Forces Panel

The event concluded with Lim's Asian Forces panel, featuring the actor Will Or and stylist Tina Leung. Lim's second visit to Fashion Asia made him notice the dichotomy of familiarity and newness on the continent - the "dynamism and hyperrealism." There is an abundance of talent waiting to be discovered. The previous edition featured Robert Wun, the first designer from Hong Kong to join the Haute Couture Calendar. This time, the talent is equally impressive. According to Lim, these 10 designers have a hyperrealist expression that unites them. "When I see this work here, it inspires me. And I think it's a reaction to what I call, frankly, the disrespect of creativity. It's great to see them using design as a vehicle, so unapologetically. I just hope they can build a business from it."