Petra Fagerström's debut collection at London Fashion Week, a remarkable synthesis of her past as a figure skater and her innovative vision in fashion, has captivated the industry. The collection draws an intriguing parallel between the precision and artistry of ice skating and the creative process of design, presenting a range that is both deeply personal and forward-thinking. Fagerström's unique approach combines the structured elegance of traditional haute couture with unexpected elements derived from artificial intelligence, resulting in a distinct aesthetic that immediately stands out. Her presentation reflects on the complex dynamics of mentorship, particularly within competitive environments, adding a profound narrative layer to her designs.
Fagerström, a Swedish designer and a recent graduate of Central Saint Martins MA, launched her solo collection at a serendipitous moment as figure skater Alysa Liu achieved Olympic gold. This coincidence underscored the core inspiration of Fagerström's work: her own experiences as a figure skater from age five to sixteen in Gothenburg, Sweden. She confessed to finding the simultaneous events “truly surreal,” as her collection was a “crystallized memory” of her competitive ice-skating days. The designer revealed that she paused her skating career to pursue fashion, yet the sport's influence remained a powerful undercurrent in her creative expression.
Her collection, a meditation on the “style and character of the woman coach,” was conceptualized around the blend of “outerwear and something sparkly”—a signature aesthetic that forms her unique design language. Fagerström reminisced about the distinctive fashion seen at the rink, particularly her coach’s attire, which often consisted of all-white or all-black Moncler ensembles paired with luxurious furry boots. This personal observation was transformed into tangible fashion elements, showcasing her ability to translate niche inspirations into universally appealing designs.
The influence of AI is visibly woven into Fagerström's designs, notably in her signature “double-fronted” jackets. These pieces emerged from an AI “glitch” that blurred the lines between a classic Dior Bar jacket and a practical anorak, creating an unexpectedly desirable fusion of inner structure and glamorous outerwear. The collection also skillfully combines warm-up athletic wear with dazzling sequin dresses and tabards, highlighting a dynamic interplay between comfort and opulence. Furthermore, Fagerström incorporated lenticular mirages into her printed pleats, producing captivating visual effects that shift and blur with movement. In a conscious nod to sustainability, the faux fur trims used in her collection were crafted from Biofluff, an innovative material made from natural fibers.
The presentation itself was theatrical and thought-provoking: models maintained a poised and somewhat critical stance, observing each other's walks down the catwalk. This arrangement subtly hinted at Fagerström’s deeper exploration of the coach-skater dynamic, revealing a psychological reckoning with the intense relationship between mentor and athlete. Her initial mood board prominently featured imagery of Tonya Harding, with a particular floral leotard finding its echo in the rose-and-hydrangea tapestry prints on her coats and jackets, pieces described as “extremely desirable.” Despite these allusions, Fagerström emphasized in her press release a desire to challenge the “mythology of the monstrous toxic mother-coach,” aiming instead for a collection that fostered empathy rather than villainization. This nuanced perspective was encapsulated in her collection’s evocative title, “After Everything I Did For You.”
Reflecting on the spectacular Olympic skating, Fagerström admitted to a sense of nostalgia for parts of her past sport. She drew a compelling parallel between the two demanding fields: “It’s a very similar feeling to making a collection, actually. It’s like skating a program on the ice: it’s the speed, and being so strong feels really good.” She acknowledged the brutal nature of ice skating while also appreciating its inherent flow, a sensation of floating that she equated with “incredible growth.” This disciplined athletic background, she believes, serves as an excellent foundation for a career in fashion. Fagerström's burgeoning talent has already garnered significant attention, leading to her selection as part of Paul Smith’s Residency, providing her with studio space and business mentorship. She is also poised to compete in the first round of the LVMH Prize in Paris, marking a whirlwind of activity and recognition for the promising designer.
The intersection of personal history, innovative design, and a poignant narrative defines Petra Fagerström's impactful debut. Her collection not only showcased a distinct aesthetic but also invited contemplation on the multifaceted relationships that shape ambition and artistry. By intertwining the athleticism of figure skating with the elegance of high fashion, Fagerström has carved out a unique space in the contemporary design landscape. Her rapid ascent, including recognition from prestigious programs and awards, underscores her potential as a transformative voice in the fashion world, promising a dynamic future for her brand.
