Meryll Rogge's inaugural collection for Marni introduces a refreshed vision for the esteemed fashion house, emphasizing practicality and a return to its foundational ethos. This presentation marks a pivotal moment, steering Marni back towards its roots of versatile, everyday luxury, moving away from the purely avant-garde to embrace a more relatable and accessible aesthetic. Rogge's debut is poised to redefine Marni's identity, blending heritage with contemporary appeal to captivate a broader audience.
Marni Reimagined: The Everyday Becomes Extraordinary
Meryll Rogge's Debut: A Symphony of Everyday Elegance
Meryll Rogge's first collection for Marni, unveiled in Milan, resonated with the melodic strains of Shirley Horn's "Here's to Life," setting a tone for a fashion that celebrates daily existence. The Belgian designer's pragmatic approach signals a deliberate return to Marni's core principles, established under its founder, Consuelo Castiglioni, by focusing on clothes that effortlessly transition from day to night. Rogge emphasized her intention to re-ground the brand in "real life," presenting a collection rich in distinctive knitwear, complementary separates, adorned skirts, and athletic-inspired outwear, all echoing Marni's iconic prints and its signature artistic, anti-glamour sensibility.
A Distinctive Vision: Shifting from Experimentation to Wearability
Rogge's direction represents a clear departure from the experimental flair of her predecessor, Francesco Risso, whose tenure was characterized by artistic inspirations, bold textiles, and exaggerated forms. In contrast, Rogge collaborated with casting director Piergiorgio del Moro to scout unique faces, such as Matilde Lucidi, Betsy Gaghan, and Libby Bennett, for her show. She articulated that the entire presentation, from the stage design to the casting choices and styling, is an integral component of her creative process, underscoring the significance of each detail in conveying her vision.
Marni's Evolution: From Founding Principles to Contemporary Challenges
Marni, established in Milan in 1994 by Gianni and Consuelo Castiglioni, saw OTB acquire a controlling stake in 2012, subsequently appointing Risso in 2016. While Risso's artistic contributions garnered critical praise, Marni's commercial performance faced headwinds during the latter part of his leadership, particularly as the luxury market experienced a downturn, impacting the aspirational consumer base vital to Marni. OTB reported a 5% decrease in sales for fiscal year 2025. Although Marni's specific revenue figures were not disclosed, its growth lagged behind other OTB brands like Diesel and Margiela in recent years. In a strategic move to bolster the brand, Risso's son, Stefano Rosso, chairman of Margiela, was appointed CEO of Marni in May of the previous year.
The Dawn of a New Era: Rogge's Leadership and Market Impact
Following Risso's departure in June 2025, Stefano Rosso selected Rogge, intentionally choosing a female designer to lead, recognizing women's ready-to-wear as a key growth sector. Rogge brings a wealth of experience, having founded her own label in 2020 and previously contributing to Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten. A recipient of the Andam Prize in 2025, Rogge is celebrated for her innovative use of upcycled and reconstructed garments, often drawing inspiration from diverse historical periods and locales, from Salvador Dali's birthplace to 1980s Americana fashion.
Industry Acclaim: A Resonant Return to Marni's Roots
Stefano Rosso lauded Rogge's show for successfully reinterpreting Marni's heritage in a modern context, praising its adherence to the brand's essence while infusing it with contemporary elegance. Rogge herself expressed a deep personal connection to Marni, having been a long-time admirer and wearer of the brand, affirming that her designs are an intrinsic reflection of her identity. Industry figures echoed this sentiment; Eva Chen of Meta commended Rogge for tapping into Consuelo Marni's world with her unique stamp, creating a collection that feels both authentic to Marni's spirit and forward-looking. Alex Kessler of i-D highlighted the collection's respectful nod to the house's DNA, particularly praising the vibrant middle section with its eclectic textures and color combinations. Nick Tran of Dover Street Market Paris noted the blend of Consuelo's vision with contemporary elements, while Jack Moss of Wallpaper appreciated the collection's eclecticism, noting the successful fusion of prints, embellishments, and unexpected pairings. Patrick Pendiuk of Vogue Germany, a Marni customer, found the collection a "safe and good start" for a new era, with pieces reminiscent of Castiglioni's Marni, yet distinctly Rogge. Carlo Capasa, president of Camera della Moda Italiana, hailed it as a beautiful interpretation that makes Marni feel "home again" in a fresh way, welcoming another woman designer to Milan Fashion Week.
