Lucien Smith will re-create New York’s legendary artist-run restaurant FOOD

Sep 19, 2024 at 4:50 PM

Reviving the Artistic Legacy of FOOD: A Culinary Collaboration in Chinatown

In the vibrant heart of New York City's Chinatown, a remarkable culinary and artistic collaboration is set to unfold. The legendary FOOD, an artist-run restaurant that captivated the Manhattan art community in the 1970s, is poised for a revival under the visionary leadership of artist Lucien Smith. This project, realized in partnership with the estate of the late Gordon Matta-Clark, aims to reignite the spirit of artistic engagement and support for the creative community downtown.

Rediscovering the Radical Roots of FOOD

A Pioneering Culinary Experiment

FOOD was a groundbreaking venture that emerged in the early 1970s, a time when Soho was an underserved neighborhood. Launched by Matta-Clark, Carol Goodden, and Tina Girouard, the restaurant was a unique blend of business and artistic intervention. With its highly experimental menu and programming, FOOD became a hub for creative expression, welcoming guest chefs like Robert Rauschenberg and Donald Judd, and staffing its kitchen with artists and designers.

A Revolutionary Moment in Downtown New York

Despite its relatively short lifespan, operating until the 1980s, FOOD's impact on the art community was profound. The project's ethos and approach to food and art resonated with the zeitgeist of the time, and it became enshrined as a revolutionary moment in the history of downtown New York. The restaurant's artist employment program, which aimed to support creatives financially while honing practical skills, was a testament to its community-driven mission.

Reviving the FOOD Legacy

Lucien Smith, an artist with a deep appreciation for FOOD's legacy, has taken on the task of reviving the iconic restaurant. Collaborating with the Matta-Clark estate, Smith has meticulously researched the eatery's archives, including film footage, photographs, and surviving menus, to capture the essence of the original project.

Expanding the Artistic Ecosystem

Smith's vision for the revived FOOD is to continue the restaurant's artist employment program, providing work opportunities and practical skills to support creatives at various stages of their careers. By investing in young artists, Smith believes he can cultivate a healthier and more sustainable artistic ecosystem in the city.

A Tribute to the Past, a Vision for the Future

As FOOD prepares for its soft opening in October, the team has planned a special event in September – a pig roast that pays homage to the 1971 Brooklyn Bridge Event, where Matta-Clark staged an exhibition and barbecue. This nod to the past sets the stage for the restaurant's future, which Smith and his collaborators envision as a dynamic, community-driven space that can expand to other cities, while staying true to its radical spirit.

Rethinking the Restaurant in New York City

Smith's approach to FOOD is one of innovation and adaptation. He recognizes the potential for the project to thrive in the present day, offering a fresh perspective on what a restaurant in New York City can be. By prioritizing artist support and fostering a collaborative, community-minded ethos, FOOD aims to redefine the role of a culinary establishment in the city's vibrant cultural landscape.

A Culinary Collaboration with a Twist

The revival of FOOD is a collaborative effort, with the artist Lucien Smith working closely with menswear designer Laurence Chandler, a collector of Smith's work and co-founder of the clothing label Rochambeau. Together, they have secured funding and a relatively affordable space in Chinatown, setting the stage for the restaurant's next chapter.

Envisioning a Sustainable Future

As FOOD looks to the future, Smith and his team envision expanding the project to other cities, such as London, Milan, and Paris, while maintaining a presence in New York City. The Chinatown location will eventually be converted into a satellite kitchen, allowing for the growth of the FOOD concept without compromising its core values and community-driven approach.