Dr. LeBesco, a Communication and Media Arts professor and associate vice president for strategic initiatives, has an intimate connection with America's national parks. In a new book, she invites readers to explore the food landscape within these cultural landmarks.

Uncovering the Hidden Food Stories of America's National Parks

Dr. LeBesco's Love for National Parks

Dr. LeBesco's passion for national parks dates back over 25 years. Growing up in a blue-collar family with limited vacation opportunities, she developed a fascination with travel. The release of the movie "Grand Canyon" in her 20s sparked her interest, leading her to take a side trip to the Grand Canyon. Despite the foggy conditions, she was drawn to the idea of these pristine natural spaces. This initial encounter set her on a path of repeatedly returning to national parks, and eventually, she became a renowned scholar in the field.She loves national parks not only for their natural beauty but also for the historical and cultural significance they hold. The establishment of the country's first national park in 1872 was a result of a romantic impulse to escape the crowded cities and connect with the sublime. This love for parks has driven her to explore and understand them on a deeper level, which led to her research and the writing of the book "Eating in US National Parks: Cosmopolitan Taste and Food Tourism".

Food Studies in National Parks

As a food studies scholar, Dr. LeBesco has noticed that the food landscape within national parks is often overlooked. The food is largely controlled by a few industrial conglomerates, resulting in bland and overpriced menu options. For example, a Yelp reviewer described their $24 elk burger from a national park restaurant as "seven bites of dry regret". This disconnect between the park's mission and the food served is a significant concern.During her research for the book, she traveled to 20 parks, including Yellowstone National Park where she spent a month working in the kitchen of a lodge. This hands-on experience allowed her to gain a new perspective on the food service in national parks. She discovered that while some concessioners try to incorporate local ingredients, the majority of the food still comes from large suppliers like Cisco trucks, offering the same standard cafeteria food.

The Impact of National Parks on Food Habits

Dr. LeBesco's research also delves into how national parks have influenced food habits over the last century. The movement towards conservation and preservation in the late 19th century led to the establishment of national parks, but the food system within them has remained largely unchanged. The emphasis on sustainable, organic, and locally produced foods in the current experience economy is in contrast to the industrial food system in national parks.She started to question why the food in national parks is not more exciting and why there is no connection to the local environment and Indigenous communities. By exploring the history of national park concessions and the lives of Indigenous people, she uncovered how the food system has disrupted the traditional foodways of these communities.

Working in Yellowstone's Kitchen

Dr. LeBesco's experience working in Yellowstone's kitchen through the Helping Hands program was a transformative one. It gave her a newfound respect for service sector jobs and the physical toll they take. Working in the restaurant allowed her to closely study the menus and gain insights that she incorporated into her book.This experience was not just about research; it also had a profound impact on her soul. It allowed her to connect with the park on a more intimate level and understand the challenges and opportunities in the food service industry within national parks.

Call to Action for Readers

Dr. LeBesco hopes that readers will take away the importance of involving Indigenous people more in the national parks. This can be through preferential concessions contracts or educational opportunities about foodways. She also wants parkgoers to be more aware of the local food producers and demand more locally sourced options on the menus.By supporting local businesses and redistributing the wealth of food contracts, readers can help create a more sustainable and meaningful food experience in national parks. This not only shows a connection to the land but also contributes to the local community.Published: November 19, 2024