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Embracing Ancestral Flavors: Chef Sean Sherman's Culinary Journey Through Turtle Island

A Vision for Authentic Indigenous Cuisine

Sean Sherman's initial acclaimed cookbook, 'The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen,' garnered a James Beard Award in 2018 for its innovative approach to traditional Indigenous recipes. That work highlighted a culinary philosophy centered on pure, locally harvested, and foraged components, deliberately excluding ingredients introduced through colonization, such as dairy, poultry, pork, wheat, and even common spices like black pepper. Sherman's aim was to reveal the authentic taste of purely Indigenous foods, demonstrating the breadth of what could be created with such a focused challenge.

Exploring North America's Diverse Culinary Landscape

Building on his previous success, Sherman's new book, 'Turtle Island,' embarks on a continental exploration, traversing North America region by region to illuminate distinct local flavors and culinary customs. True to his decolonization ethos, Sherman emphasizes native game, fish, fruits, and vegetables that were staples before European contact. He underscores the vast and varied Indigenous cultures across the continent, explaining his desire to present a vision of food entirely free from colonial boundaries, where some regions exhibit unique characteristics while others share culinary commonalities.

The Symbolic Foundation of 'Turtle Island'

The book's geographical structure is rooted in the traditional Indigenous narrative of Turtle Island, a name used by many Native nations to describe the North American landmass, believed to have formed on the back of a giant turtle. Sherman ingeniously divides the continent into 13 regions, mirroring the 13 segments on a turtle's shell. Through this framework, he guides readers from the Arctic expanse of Alaska to the vast Great Plains and down to southern Mexico, showcasing regional dishes and reinterpreting them for a modern palate. His vision is not merely a historical account of traditional foods but a forward-looking collection designed to inspire future culinary creations.

Echoes of Sustainability in Ancient Traditions

Each region's culinary offerings in 'Turtle Island' provide a window into the dietary practices of Indigenous communities centuries ago. For example, the Great Plains section features dishes like braised bison oxtail and rabbit stew, reflecting the fare commonly enjoyed by the Lakota and other Plains tribes. The chapter on Northern Alaska and the Canadian Arctic presents seal tartar and kelp-wrapped Arctic char, showcasing the fresh aquatic resources central to Inupiat and Yupik diets. Despite the regional variations, Sherman discovered a pervasive theme: a profound commitment to sustainability and respectful utilization of ingredients, highlighting Indigenous peoples as original stewards of the land.

Cultivating Specificity and Cultural Understanding

In 'Turtle Island,' Sherman embraces the beauty of hyper-localized ingredients, acknowledging that some featured recipes may require access to specific communities, seasons, and foraging opportunities. His intention is to introduce a broader audience to Indigenous customs and to highlight the centuries of culinary innovation within these cultures. He expresses hope that the book will help normalize Indigenous foods and deepen understanding of the thriving Indigenous peoples and cultures that continue to enrich the continent today, noting that much remains to be explored and appreciated.

A Taste of Tradition: Garden Vegetable Soup with Dumplings

To celebrate the release of his new cookbook, Sherman shares a comforting recipe from the southern Mexico region: 'Sopa de Milpa con Chochoyotes y Chipilín,' a garden vegetable soup with dumplings, ideal for autumn. He describes chochoyotes as classic, easy-to-make masa dumplings that add heartiness to the broth, suggesting a touch of spice for an authentic flavor experience.

Understanding the Milpa System

Across Turtle Island, particularly in the Yucatán region among the Maya people and other Indigenous communities in central and southern Mexico, the milpa system involves interplanting corn, beans, squash, chiles, and tomatoes. This traditional agricultural practice shapes the essence of sopa de milpa, a soup that naturally adapts to whatever vegetables are in season in local gardens.

Seasonal Delights and Ingredient Adaptations

Sherman notes that chipilín leaves, with their mild spinach-like flavor and hint of green bean, are a favorite addition to his sopa de milpa, growing wild throughout South and Central America and southern Mexico. For those unable to source chipilín, baby spinach serves as a suitable substitute. The inclusion of chochoyotes, simple masa dumplings, enhances the soup's richness, though they can be omitted based on preference.

Crafting the Perfect Garden Vegetable Soup

The preparation begins by combining fresh masa with oil, then incorporating finely chopped chipilín leaves before forming small, thumb-dented dumplings. Onions are sautéed until translucent, followed by garlic and chile until fragrant. Squash and tomatoes are added, cooked until the tomatoes begin to soften and release their juices. Stock, the remaining chipilín leaves, and epazote are introduced, brought to a boil, then simmered with corn cob rounds until tender. Finally, the masa dumplings are gently dropped into the soup and cooked until firm, ensuring not to overcook them to maintain their integrity. The epazote sprig is removed, cider vinegar is stirred in, and the soup is seasoned to taste before squash blossoms are added to wilt just before serving.