Audemars Piguet, a distinguished name in luxury horology, is actively challenging the notion of a watch being "too iconic" by expanding its collection beyond the celebrated Royal Oak. This strategic move aims to broaden the brand's identity and perception, as exemplified by the introduction of the innovative Neo Frame Jumping Hour watch. This new offering delves into the house's rich archives, reinterpreting a historical design with a modern sensibility, showcasing Audemars Piguet's commitment to both heritage and innovation.
The concept of a "jumping hours" watch, characterized by a dedicated aperture that digitally displays the hours, served as the initial spark for this new creation. Audemars Piguet's Neo Frame Jumping Hour takes this a step further by featuring a guichet-style dial with two distinct windows for hours and minutes. Sebastian Vivas, the brand's heritage and museum director, highlights that while the Royal Oak remains a beloved icon, Audemars Piguet's legacy extends far beyond a single model. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour is a direct result of the brand's [Re]Master program, initially conceived to revive vintage designs, which has since evolved to integrate this distinctive timepiece into its permanent collection.
Historically, guichet-style watches were at the forefront of modernity in the 1920s, representing a departure from conventional timekeeping. These watches often sported robust, armored exteriors, reflecting a desire for both functionality and avant-garde design. Vivas illustrates this by pointing to everyday objects from that era—teapots, hair dryers, and irons—that were transformed into almost futuristic designs through sharp lines, symmetrical forms, and polished metallic finishes. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour echoes this aesthetic with its accordion-like edges. However, the traditional gleaming gold alloy of the past has been replaced with a contemporary, almost obsidian hue, achieved through a sophisticated physical vapor deposition process, aligning with today's vision of modernity.
The current iteration of the Neo Frame Jumping Hour draws inspiration from a 1929 model, though Audemars Piguet had produced a jumping hour wristwatch as early as 1924. It is notable that, a century later, guichet-style watches are experiencing a resurgence in popularity, with other luxury brands like Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Bremont, and Jaeger-LeCoultre also revisiting this distinctive style. Much like their predecessors, these modern guichet watches challenge traditional time display, prioritizing essential functionality and a minimalist, almost brutalist, design.
For Audemars Piguet, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour signifies a symbolic shift away from strict adherence to tradition. Its rectangular design is already recognized and robust enough to stand alongside the iconic Royal Oak. Vivas views these watches as treasures previously confined to the brand's museum archives, now made accessible to collectors. This release not only diversifies Audemars Piguet's portfolio but also introduces a largely unknown yet fascinating part of its history to a broader audience, fostering a deeper appreciation for the brand's extensive horological journey.
