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The Intersection of Eras and Equestrian Allure
For the upcoming autumn season, Natalia Alaverdian artfully merges two seemingly disparate fashion movements: the transition from the commanding silhouettes of the late 1980s to the understated elegance of 1990s minimalism, alongside a profound inspiration from equestrian aesthetics. Alaverdian articulates her vision as an endeavor to inject novelty into classic designs, imbuing them with an unexpected element of surprise.
Redefining Classic Wardrobe Staples with Playful Deconstruction
Natalia Alaverdian's creative process often begins with deconstructing archetypal garments, such as the polo skirt and jacket, reimagining their forms to create something entirely new and unconventional. This approach results in designs that cleverly invert expectations, like a polo skirt worn upside down, or a jacket with an unexpected structural alteration. Such innovations are a testament to the brand's commitment to pushing boundaries while retaining a sense of sophisticated playfulness.
The "Duchess" Look and Aristocratic Whimsy
A prime example of Alaverdian's inventive spirit is the ensemble she affectionately terms “the Duchess.” This look pairs a precisely tailored tan riding jacket with a vibrant poppy-red sweater, creatively combined with her signature “butt all around” back-to-front jeans. This fusion exemplifies the collection's overall aristocratic yet self-awarely humorous tone, where elegance is never without a touch of wit.
Subverting Expectations: From Everyday to Extraordinary
The collection further explores this concept of playful subversion through items that, at first glance, might appear conventional or even austere. For instance, a men’s striped button-down shirt is cut to reveal a shoulder, while trenches and evening dresses feature lapels at both the neckline and hem. Argyle cardigans and flared denim are transformed with extravagant fur cuffs, elevating them beyond their common perception. Even a navy cape jacket, with its intentionally misaligned buttons, contributes to the collection’s joyful disposition, demonstrating Alaverdian's knack for infusing fun into every design.
Innovative Layering and Reinvented Silhouettes
Layering continues to be a cornerstone of Alaverdian's design philosophy, with tuxedo shirts featuring additional sleeves that can be tied around the body or detached for separate wear. A particularly ingenious piece is a skirt-like accessory that ingeniously fuses a checked jacket, a sweater, and a shirt, styled over black flared pants. This innovative approach to layering not only adds visual interest but also offers versatility to the wearer, allowing for multiple styling options within a single garment.
Knitwear's Ascendance and Creative Textures
The significance of knitwear in A.W.A.K.E. Mode’s offerings is steadily increasing, showcased this season through a gray top adorned with dramatic cascades of ruffles. These intricate details are cleverly fashioned from two scarves repurposed from the previous spring collection, highlighting Alaverdian’s sustainable and resourceful design ethos. A navy ribbed piece with a cowl neck, while appearing unassuming on its hanger, transforms into a garment of remarkable grace and fluidity once worn.
Humor and Ingenuity in Design Details
Alaverdian’s affection for a good punchline is evident throughout the collection. She humorously describes a long dress with buttons extending down both sides as “office in front and party in back,” encapsulating the collection’s duality. Many designs appear twisted or wrenched, giving the impression that pieces have been put on back to front, adding an element of surprise and playfulness. A velvet midi dress includes a detachable basque, offering the option for a “less insane” look. Furthermore, Alaverdian’s partiality for a “one-leg-out” aesthetic is realized in a tiered zippered skirt that can be worn fully fastened or with strategic openings, allowing a leg to emerge in a bold statement.
Whimsical Footwear: A Nod to the Past with a Contemporary Edge
A.W.A.K.E. Mode maintains its reputation for distinctive and often whimsical footwear. This fall, the brand introduces boots characterized by what can only be described as “boy-band pompom” detailing, available in leopard pony skin or purple suede with prominent tassels. The collection also features court shoes adorned with rosettes and oversized bows. These playful yet sophisticated footwear options, reminiscent of 18th-century fashion and Versailles opulence, perfectly complement the collection’s eclectic and imaginative spirit.
