Toledano & Chan has rapidly ascended as a brand garnering significant attention in the horology world, primarily due to its distinct brutalist-inspired watch designs. The company, a collaboration between an NYC-based conceptual artist and a Hong Kong-based watch enthusiast, has consistently delivered timepieces that challenge traditional aesthetics while upholding luxury standards. Their latest creation, the b/1.3r, exemplifies this philosophy, showcasing a unique combination of materials and a design ethos that prioritizes individuality over fleeting trends. This commitment to innovation and bold design has not only captured the imagination of collectors but also cemented Toledano & Chan's position as a forward-thinking player in the watch industry.
The brand's journey began with the highly successful b/1, a watch that quickly sold out and established Toledano & Chan's signature style. Subsequent iterations, such as the b/1.2 with its Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and the groundbreaking b/1m, the world's first all-meteorite production watch, further demonstrated their willingness to experiment with rare and exquisite materials. This progressive approach, coupled with a deep appreciation for architectural influences, has enabled Toledano & Chan to cultivate a niche market for discerning collectors who seek watches that are both artful and exceptional. The brand's ability to fuse conceptual art with horological craftsmanship continues to drive its appeal and reinforce its unique identity.
The Evolution of Brutalist Horology: From b/1 to b/1.3r
Toledano & Chan has quickly established itself as a watch brand known for its distinctive brutalist aesthetic, which emerged from the collaboration between conceptual artist Philip Toledano and watch collector Alfred Chan. Their debut model, the b/1, was a bold statement, characterized by its chunky shapes and sharp lines, drawing inspiration from architectural brutalism rather than conventional watch design. This initial release, which sold out rapidly, set the stage for a series of innovative iterations. The b/1 featured a lapis lazuli dial, a material often associated with vintage luxury timepieces from the 1970s, hinting at the brand's blend of historical appreciation and contemporary design. The immediate success and unique visual language of the b/1 paved the way for subsequent models that continued to push the boundaries of watchmaking aesthetics and material use.
Following the triumph of the b/1, Toledano & Chan continued to explore diverse materials and design interpretations. The b/1.2 introduced a Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, offering a softer, iridescent contrast to the brutalist case. A particularly notable release was the b/1m, a one-off timepiece crafted entirely from meteorite, marking it as the world's first all-meteorite production watch. This extraordinary piece sold for over $35,000 at a charity auction, underscoring the brand's innovative spirit and desirability. Their latest offering, the b/1.3r, maintains the brand's signature case design but elevates it with a titanium body and a striking rippled 18k gold dial. This combination creates a unique visual contrast, with the dark, brushed titanium highlighting the rich, reflective gold. The designers consciously moved away from the trend of ubiquitous stone dials, aiming instead to create something truly novel and visually arresting, demonstrating their commitment to pioneering unique material combinations and design concepts.
Material Innovation and Design Philosophy in the b/1.3r
The b/1.3r represents a significant step in Toledano & Chan's commitment to material innovation and distinctive design. While retaining the recognizable brutalist case shape that defines the brand, this model introduces a fresh material palette, combining the lightness and durability of titanium with the luxurious luster of an 18k gold dial. This blend of industrial and opulent materials creates a unique aesthetic appeal, offering a watch that is both robust and refined. The rippled texture of the gold dial further enhances its visual interest, providing a dynamic interplay of light and shadow that differentiates it from more traditional watch faces. This thoughtful selection of materials and finishes underscores the brand's philosophy of crafting timepieces that are not merely functional but also serve as wearable art.
The inspiration behind the b/1.3r extends beyond merely creating a beautiful object; it also reflects a conscious decision to diverge from prevalent industry trends. Philip Toledano noted the widespread adoption of stone dials in the watch industry, which had quickly transitioned from a luxury signifier to a common feature. In response, Toledano & Chan sought to innovate by introducing a combination of titanium and 18k gold, aiming to create a novel and impactful visual statement. The striking contrast between the dark, brushed titanium case and the radiant gold dial was a deliberate design choice, emphasizing exclusivity and aesthetic originality. While the watch utilizes the reliable Sellita automatic movement and maintains a slightly smaller case size than its predecessors, its true innovation lies in this compelling material fusion and the brand's unwavering dedication to forging a unique identity in a competitive market, ensuring each piece stands as a testament to their avant-garde vision.
