Step into the meticulously curated world of Thoroughbred New York, a distinctive destination for aficionados of classic Ralph Lauren fashion. Nestled in an historic edifice, this showroom is a veritable treasure trove of vintage apparel and accessories, each piece a carefully selected relic from the esteemed designer's prolific career. The proprietor, Laird Mackintosh, a devoted connoisseur since his youth, offers an exclusive insight into his most cherished acquisitions, illustrating the enduring legacy and unique aesthetic of Ralph Lauren.
Unearthing Elegance: A Connoisseur's Collection of Ralph Lauren's Enduring Style
The Genesis of a Collection: Laird Mackintosh's Lifelong Devotion to Ralph Lauren's Vision
Thoroughbred New York, situated in an antiquated building in Kingston, New York, is not a place one stumbles upon by chance. It serves as a pilgrimage site for discerning collectors seeking rare vintage Ralph Lauren garments and accessories. Mackintosh, whose fascination with Ralph Lauren began in his teenage years, explains that visitors are often overwhelmed by the sheer volume of exclusive Ralph Lauren items. His journey into collecting started in the mid-1980s while working at a Polo store in Calgary, Alberta. Decades later, he stands as a leading authority on Lauren's extensive body of work, boasting a personal archive that includes iconic Western wear, tartan luggage, and even a rare 1970s Polo fragrance. Thoroughbred New York, being one of the few establishments of its kind outside Japan, is a crucial resource for both passionate enthusiasts and designers seeking inspiration from Lauren's peak creative period.
The Enduring Allure of the 1982 Polo Ralph Lauren Tweed Suit
Among Mackintosh's prized possessions is a substantial tweed suit from 1982, distinguished by its double-breasted "Derby" waistcoat. This remarkable find was discovered at an estate sale in Connecticut, a moment of serendipity for the collector who had long admired its image from the 1982 Polo catalog. Adding to the marvel, a second exquisite three-piece tweed suit from the same catalog was also procured at the very same sale. Mackintosh muses about the previous owner's impeccable taste, envisioning him selecting both ensembles directly from the catalog in 1982, highlighting the timeless appeal of these sartorial masterpieces.
The Iconic 1977 Polo Ralph Lauren Shearling Overcoat: A Symbol of Rugged Sophistication
Another beloved item in the collection is a shearling overcoat from 1977. Its significance became clear to Mackintosh when he recognized it as the garment featured in Ralph Lauren's renowned "Cowboy in the Snow" photograph. This image, part of Lauren's inaugural advertising campaign brochures (mailers) from 1977, famously contrasted a tuxedo-clad cowboy with a weathered hat and coat against a snowy backdrop. This "high-low" aesthetic became a cornerstone of Ralph Lauren's design philosophy. The coat itself is a weighty, belted piece, sumptuously lined with alpaca pile, representing a fusion of practicality and luxury.
The Distinguished Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Coat of the 1990s and a 1984 Tasseled Silk Scarf
The Polo Coat, characterized by its double-breasted design, peak lapels, cuffs, and half-belt, is widely considered a pivotal garment in Ralph Lauren's history. While typically crafted from camel hair, it also appears in tweed and cashmere variations. Mackintosh, possessing numerous versions in his personal collection, particularly values a 1990s rendition featuring a rare herringbone pattern in the camel cloth—a true rarity for Polo collectors. The accompanying tasseled silk scarf, a personal favorite, was notably showcased in the Fall 1984 "Thoroughbred" campaign, further solidifying its iconic status.
The Legendary 1970s Polo Ralph Lauren Tweed Jacket: A Collector's Ultimate Quest
The 1970s herringbone tweed jacket, with its distinctive bellows pockets, buttoned throat latch, and suede elbow patches, drew inspiration from traditional British hunting attire and stands as one of Ralph Lauren's original jacket designs. A modern interpretation of this jacket is now produced by the company as the RL67, but Mackintosh's pursuit was for the original. He considers finding this exact replica of Ralph's initial design to be the ultimate achievement for any Polo collector. For him, it embodies perfection, exuding character and emotion through its impeccable cut and fabric. Despite being over five decades old, it remains a cherished garment worn on special occasions.
The Revered 1980 Polo Ralph Lauren “Buzzy Kerbox” Blazer: A Glimpse into Brand Heritage
Named in tribute to the celebrated surfer and Polo model, the "Buzzy Kerbox" blazer holds historical significance as it bears the very first bullion crest ever created by Ralph Lauren for Polo. Mackintosh acquired the crest itself as a teenager in the 1980s, adorning various navy Polo blazers over the years. It now resides on a substantial doeskin Polo blazer from circa 1980, characterized by its thick welt seams. During his tenure at the Polo shop, Mackintosh was daily reminded of the blazer's legacy by Bruce Weber's iconic photograph of Buzzy Kerbox, prominently displayed on the wall.
The Exquisite 1987 Polo Ralph Lauren Hardshell Luggage: A Tale of Luxury Travel
A cherished part of Mackintosh's collection is a rare set of hardshell luggage in Stewart tartan, which recently accompanied him and his wife on a road trip. This remarkable find was acquired from the estate of a former prominent record executive, who also chaired Martha Stewart's media company. Mackintosh vividly recounts driving to a grand Long Island estate to collect the luggage, some pieces still bearing tags from the Carlisle Hotel in New York. He muses on the stylish image of its original owner traveling from Long Island to the Carlisle with this tartan Polo luggage in its heyday.
The Enduring Scent of 1978 Polo Cologne: A Personal and Universal Classic
The original Polo Cologne for Men, launched in 1978, holds a special place in Mackintosh's memory as his very first fragrance purchase, which he continues to wear today. The iconic bottle, conceptualized by Ralph Lauren to resemble a flask, is instantly recognizable. Few are aware of the existence of a limited-edition silver bottle, a highly rare item and a prized possession within Mackintosh's collection, symbolizing the enduring appeal and classic status of the fragrance.
