Kiichiro Asakawa, the visionary behind the discreetly sophisticated fashion label Ssstein, has meticulously cultivated a thriving enterprise over the past decade. The 39-year-old designer’s brand now boasts an impressive network of over 100 retailers worldwide. His consistent growth trajectory is evident in the near doubling of annual revenue, reaching approximately 1 billion JPY ($6 million) within the last five years. Ssstein’s distinctive style, characterized by fluid silhouettes and a refined, almost ascetic aesthetic, has garnered a loyal following, particularly among menswear enthusiasts who appreciate Japanese brands like Auralee and A.Presse.
The brand's strategic decision to participate in Paris's official men's fashion calendar, following two successful off-schedule presentations that boosted sales by about 250 million JPY ($1.8 million), marks a significant step towards expanding its global footprint. Asakawa's journey began with his Tokyo store, Carol, founded in 2016, where he started reimagining and selling jeans using his aunt's sewing machine. This initial success, selling around 300 pairs of custom denim, ignited his passion for garment creation. After launching his first collection under the name Stein in FW17 and holding showrooms from SS18, the brand was rebranded to Ssstein in 2024 to avoid global trademark conflicts. Asakawa, a self-taught designer from Yamanashi prefecture, honed his skills by deconstructing and reconstructing vintage pieces at the defunct Harajuku store, Naichichi, where he developed an intuitive understanding of design and construction.
Asakawa's retail space, Carol, named to evoke a 'song filled with soul,' reflects his philosophy of fostering a community where designers pour their heart into their craft. The store, with its minimalist decor, showcases a curated selection of thoughtful designs from brands such as Hed Mayner and Rier. Ssstein's collection, encompassing both men's and women's wear, features understated pieces like wool trench coats, cashmere sweaters, and cotton cargo pants, ranging from $180 for a T-shirt to over $2,300 for a sought-after wool coat. Asakawa believes consumers seek comfortable, simple garments with subtle sophistication, a quality he achieves through developing unique fabrics with Japanese suppliers and crafting comfortably oversized, contemporary silhouettes. Andreas Murkudis, a respected Berlin retailer, attests to Ssstein's popularity, noting rapid sales and consistent demand. With 90% of its revenue from wholesale and the US emerging as a key market for denim and leather, while coats sell well in Europe and a diverse range in Asia, Ssstein is strategically navigating global markets. Asakawa's cautious approach to expansion ensures supply chain stability, even as international interest grows. While a dedicated Ssstein flagship store is a long-term aspiration, his immediate focus remains on Carol and delivering a memorable show in Paris, a prospect he anticipates with excitement rather than apprehension.
The journey of Ssstein exemplifies the power of passion, meticulous craftsmanship, and strategic vision in building a global fashion brand. Asakawa's dedication to quality and his insightful understanding of consumer preferences demonstrate that authenticity and thoughtful design can resonate deeply in the international market. His story is a testament to the idea that with sustained effort and a clear artistic direction, a niche brand can ascend to global recognition, enriching the fashion landscape with its unique identity and inspiring countless others to pursue their creative ambitions.
