Robin Givhan's insightful new volume, \"Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh,\" offers a fresh perspective on the iconic designer's impact. Rather than a conventional biographical account, Givhan masterfully positions Abloh's career within the broader context of a transformative era in the fashion world. Her narrative skillfully intertwines his personal journey with the significant shifts occurring in the industry, particularly the rise of digital platforms and evolving menswear trends. This approach illuminates how Abloh, despite his brief tenure in high fashion, left an indelible mark by challenging traditional structures and fostering a more inclusive environment.

The book further unpacks the elements that enabled Abloh's extraordinary success. It highlights his innovative use of online engagement to connect directly with consumers, effectively bypassing established gatekeepers. Givhan also explores how the burgeoning sneaker and streetwear cultures provided a fertile ground for his unconventional ascent, allowing him to achieve superstar status without adhering to classical fashion education or traditional industry endorsements. Furthermore, she meticulously examines the profound influence of Abloh's identity as a Black Midwesterner and the son of Ghanaian immigrants, showing how these experiences shaped his temperament, ambition, and his unique approach to democratizing fashion, inviting a wider audience into a previously exclusive realm.

The Designer as Disruptor: Abloh's Visionary Approach

Robin Givhan's \"Make It Ours\" portrays Virgil Abloh not merely as a designer but as a catalyst for seismic change in the fashion landscape. Breaking from traditional biographical narratives, Givhan meticulously chronicles Abloh's trajectory as a figure uniquely positioned to capitalize on a period of profound industry disruption. She argues that his success was deeply intertwined with the evolving digital realm, which allowed for unprecedented direct engagement with consumers, a strategy Abloh leveraged to an unparalleled degree. This innovative approach, coupled with his willingness to share the design process, demystified fashion for many, fostering a more accessible and inclusive environment than the industry had previously known.

Abloh's rise also benefited significantly from the changing dynamics of menswear, particularly the explosive growth of sneaker culture. Givhan illuminates how this male-dominated collecting sphere provided a unique pathway for Abloh's ascent, enabling him to achieve star status despite a non-traditional background—neither attending fashion school nor initially having the backing of a major brand. His collaborative work with figures like Kanye West further solidified his celebrity status, presaging the current trend of entertainment figures leading luxury houses. Givhan highlights Abloh's conscious effort to dismantle fashion's exclusionary barriers, famously inviting 3,000 fashion students to his debut Louis Vuitton menswear show. While his Off-White brand maintained luxury pricing, Givhan contends that Abloh nonetheless made fashion more attainable by validating the aspirations of a broader audience, demonstrating that the dream of participating in high fashion was indeed within reach for many.

Identity, Legacy, and the Unfolding Narrative

Givhan's exploration extends to the profound influence of Abloh's personal background on his professional ethos. As the child of Ghanaian immigrants, Abloh embraced the "protective layers" of education, earning degrees in civil engineering and architecture long before his foray into fashion. This second-generation immigrant identity, Givhan suggests, instilled in him a distinct temperament marked by dutifulness, ambition, and a palpable sense of urgency to succeed. Unlike many of his Generation X peers, Abloh's approach to disruption was not about overturning established structures, but rather about securing a prominent seat at the decision-making table, reflecting a more deferential yet determined disposition.

The book also grapples with the complexities of Abloh's legacy, particularly in the wake of the 2020 racial reckoning. His characteristic openness, which had endeared him to fans, became a point of contention when he faced criticism for a perceived lack of radical engagement during that tumultuous period. Givhan notes how this moment forced Abloh to confront real-time challenges to his centrist demeanor. The author reflects on the enduring question of where Abloh might have evolved had he lived, and the magnifying effect that often accompanies the accomplishments of those who depart prematurely. His story, therefore, remains an unfolding narrative, a testament to a visionary who profoundly reshaped fashion's landscape, leaving an enduring impact that continues to be examined and celebrated.