In recent years, fashion has witnessed a significant departure from the mundane, embracing a new wave of creativity and experimentation. Designers are pushing boundaries, exploring unconventional materials, and reimagining classic silhouettes. One such designer, Craig Green, reintroduced himself to the fashion world with a series of meticulously crafted pieces that combined traditional elements with modern innovation. His collaboration with Danish leather brand Ecco resulted in striking biker jackets adorned with colorful, puzzle-like layers of shooting and protective patches. These garments not only showcased Green’s artistic vision but also highlighted his dedication to craftsmanship and detail.
Walking through London’s Docklands, where towering cranes and bustling construction sites symbolize urban reinvention, the excitement surrounding Green’s return was palpable. The show served as a testament to the power of creativity and the limitless possibilities it offers. It was evident that Green had found his stride, crafting pieces that were both strange and seductive, inviting viewers to question and explore the artistry behind each design.
This renewed focus on innovation extends beyond individual designers and reflects a broader trend within the fashion industry. The era of quiet luxury, characterized by understated elegance and minimalism, is giving way to a more daring and imaginative approach. Designers are now eschewing the predictable in favor of bold, thought-provoking creations that evoke wonder and curiosity. For instance, John Galliano’s triumphant Artisanal show for Maison Margiela transported audiences to a world of fantasy and spectacle, while Rick Owens’ epic Hollywood-inspired presentation featured an army of love clad in white, creating a mesmerizing visual experience.
Mattieu Blazy’s colorful Bottega Veneta collection, set amidst a whimsical menagerie of leather beanbag animals, exemplified the joy and discovery inherent in fashion. Blazy aimed to reignite the primal pull of dressing up, emphasizing the power of wow and the sheer delight of creating something extraordinary. Similarly, Marni’s Francesco Risso reimagined midcentury silhouettes in paper-like fabrics, blending elegance with a playful twist. These collections not only showcased technical prowess but also tapped into the emotional and sensory aspects of fashion, offering a fresh perspective on design.
The Wallpaper* Design Awards 2025 recognized several pieces that transcended the ordinary, celebrating their uniqueness and craftsmanship. Among the winners were Green’s biker jacket and a purposely crumpled overcoat by Blazy, both chosen for their wow factor and ability to challenge conventional aesthetics. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ S/S 2025 collection for Prada stood out for its rejection of derivative and expected designs, featuring 49 unique looks that celebrated individuality and self-expression. Each garment was a statement, embodying the idea of a superhero with its own power and story.
Duran Lantink and Ellen Hodakova Larsson, recipients of the 2024 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, further exemplified this spirit of innovation. Lantink’s work, characterized by smooth, bulbous protrusions, transformed everyday garments into bold and challenging pieces. Meanwhile, Larsson’s use of deadstock materials created surreal glamour, turning discarded objects into wearable art. Both designers demonstrated that fashion can be both provocative and practical, bridging the gap between high fashion and streetwear.
Satoshi Kondo, at the helm of Issey Miyake, continues to push the boundaries of construction and material manipulation. Inspired by traditional Japanese washi paper, Kondo’s latest collection explored the transformative potential of folding and shaping, evoking childhood memories of origami. Victoria Beckham also ventured into uncharted territory, experimenting with forms and structures in her latest collection. A standout piece featured fabric draped over twisting wire rods, showcasing her commitment to innovation and refusing to rest on past successes.
Jonathan Anderson’s work at Loewe and JW Anderson exemplifies the endless possibilities of fashion. At Loewe, he introduced featherweight dresses constructed over intricate cage-like frameworks, alongside elongated shoes and T-shirts hand-painted with iconic artworks. At JW Anderson, Anderson explored the intersection of art and design, presenting a reduced yet impactful collection that questioned the future of fashion. His post-show reflections emphasized the importance of starting afresh, highlighting the boundless potential of a blank page.