The culinary world mourns the loss of Brian Canipelli, the celebrated chef behind Asheville’s renowned restaurants Cucina 24 and Contrada. Canipelli passed away on February 6 at the age of 46. His untimely death has left a void in the culinary scene, particularly in Asheville, where his innovative approach to Italian cuisine left an indelible mark. Canipelli's career paralleled that of many food writers who chronicled his rise, including the author of this piece, whose first encounter with Canipelli's restaurant occurred shortly after starting as a food writer. This article reflects on Canipelli's legacy, his dedication to simplicity, and the lasting impressions he made on diners and critics alike.

Brian Canipelli was not just a chef; he was an artist who let his creations speak for themselves. When Cucina 24 opened its doors, it quickly became evident that Canipelli had a unique vision. He believed in allowing the food to tell its own story, eschewing elaborate explanations or guided tastings. This philosophy set him apart from other chefs who often sought to explain their dishes. Instead, Canipelli preferred to let diners experience the flavors firsthand, trusting in the power of simplicity to convey his culinary message. His early days were marked by experimentation, but even then, there was a clear commitment to authenticity and quality.

Canipelli's approach to Italian cuisine was rooted in tradition yet refreshingly modern. He focused on fresh, seasonal ingredients and classic preparations, always striving to create dishes that felt both familiar and innovative. The menu at Cucina 24 was organized in traditional Italian fashion, offering a progression of courses that allowed guests to savor each element of the meal. One standout dish was the black-pepper tagliatelle, an updated version of cacio e pepe. By embedding black peppercorns into the pasta dough, Canipelli elevated this humble dish to new heights, creating a flavor profile that was both earthy and sophisticated. Another highlight was the roasted lamb shoulder, which was soaked in milk for hours before being slow-cooked to perfection, resulting in a tender and flavorful masterpiece.

Canipelli's influence extended beyond the kitchen. He fostered a collaborative environment in his open kitchen, where his team worked seamlessly together. His brother and former culinary school classmates joined him, bringing a sense of camaraderie that translated into exceptional dining experiences. Despite the accolades and success, Canipelli remained humble, never seeking the spotlight. His focus was always on the food, ensuring that every dish met his high standards. Even when faced with challenges, such as occasional inconsistencies, Canipelli maintained his commitment to excellence, continually refining his craft.

In the wake of Canipelli's passing, the memories of his dishes live on in the hearts and minds of those who experienced them. A celebration of his life is planned for February 23 at New Belgium Brewery in Asheville, where friends, family, and admirers will gather to honor his contributions to the culinary world. While no dish can be preserved forever, the impact of Canipelli's artistry will endure through the countless meals he created and the inspiration he provided to future generations of chefs. His legacy is not just in the recipes he left behind but in the way he approached cooking—with passion, integrity, and a deep respect for the traditions that shaped his craft.