This New York Fashion Week saw designer Rachel Scott presenting two distinct yet complementary beauty narratives for her labels, Diotima and Proenza Schouler. At Proenza Schouler, makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver conceived a "deconstructed perfection" aesthetic, drawing inspiration from the sophisticated women of New York City, characterized by an intentional yet subtly imperfect polish. Complementing this, hairstylist Holli Smith fashioned seemingly simple, yet meticulously crafted low ponytails. A few days later, at Diotima, Scott collaborated with hairstylist Joey George to explore themes of eroticism and cultural empowerment, taking cues from artist Wilfredo Lam's work to create a dramatic "bedroom twist" hairstyle. Both presentations ultimately celebrated the intricate and diverse facets of contemporary femininity, emphasizing individuality and strength through thoughtful beauty choices.
Rachel Scott's Dual Showcase: A Deep Dive into NYFW Beauty
During a recent New York Fashion Week, designer Rachel Scott captivated audiences with two compelling showcases, each presenting a unique vision of beauty for her distinct labels. The first presentation, for Proenza Schouler, unfolded on a gloomy Wednesday afternoon in the vibrant Lower East Side. Scott's muse was the quintessential New York City woman – a figure of apparent composure and effortless multitasking, managing a bustling career and a rich personal life with a wardrobe to match. "To the casual observer, she is impeccably organized, precise, and unfailingly punctual," Scott noted in the show's press release. "However, those who truly understand her recognize a deeper complexity."
This philosophy extended to the beauty looks. Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver, backstage, described the approach as taking "elements of a classic makeup look and deconstructing them," viewing makeup as an intentional accessory. He devised three unconventional styles using Byredo's vibrant cosmetic range. One look reimagined traditional eyeliner, with a bold black kajal swiped across a single eyelid or along the lower lash line. Another focused on the lips, where a classic red liquid matte lipstick was applied with a deliberate, jigsaw-like asymmetry, covering only half of the top and bottom lips. De Kluyver remarked, "These subtly alter the face." The third look highlighted dramatic lashes, replacing a simple mascara coat with foil-crusted eyelashes enhanced by Byredo's Astronomical Mascara in Space Black. The skin, notably, remained fresh and luminous, a testament to Furtuna Skin's products.
Hair, under the direction of professional hairstylist Holli Smith, also embraced this concept of polished imperfection. Smith envisioned a low ponytail that, while appearing simple and effortless, required significant precision and time to create. Natural curls, waves, and textures were accentuated with Oribe products and styled with T3 hot tools, resulting in a sleek yet intentionally undone finish. Smith encapsulated the look as that of "the woman who prepared herself meticulously, then had to rush out the door."
A few days later, amidst similar weather in the Financial District, the Diotima show unveiled its own distinctive aesthetic. "At Diotima, beauty is intrinsically linked to politics," Scott declared in her show notes. Her inspiration stemmed from the art of Wilfredo Lam, whose works frequently depict Afro-Cuban culture and spirituality, symbolizing resistance. Scott specifically referenced Lam's "femme cheval" motif, exploring how this dual human and divine figure transforms the object of desire into a potent cultural force.
For Diotima, Scott and hairstylist Joey George highlighted eroticism as a core theme. George, drawing inspiration from the women photographed by Helmut Newton, crafted what he termed "the bedroom twist." Using an unreleased Oribe product, he created a double French twist at the back of the head. In front, lacquered strands flowed from a left side-part, subtly curling to frame the face. While the look evoked vintage glamour, George emphasized that it was not merely a nostalgic nod to past femininity. He stated, "It's a powerful, highly polished look. Strength is sexy."
Ultimately, Scott's two archetypes – the composed woman of Proenza Schouler and the strong woman of Diotima – are not isolated figures but rather converge in their intricate nuances, mirroring the multifaceted reality of the modern woman.
Rachel Scott's recent New York Fashion Week presentations offered a compelling exploration of contemporary femininity through the lens of beauty. The deliberate deconstruction of conventional beauty standards at Proenza Schouler, focusing on "put-together imperfections," resonated deeply. It's a powerful statement about embracing authenticity while still exuding confidence. The meticulous artistry of Thomas de Kluyver and Holli Smith in crafting looks that appear effortless yet are rich in detail is truly inspiring. Similarly, Diotima's bold embrace of eroticism and cultural power, channeled through Joey George's "bedroom twist," challenged traditional notions of glamour. It’s clear that Scott understands that true beauty lies not in flawless perfection, but in the nuanced expression of individuality and inner strength. These collections serve as a reminder that fashion and beauty can be powerful platforms for cultural commentary and personal empowerment, encouraging us to see beyond the surface and appreciate the intricate layers that define modern womanhood.
