Oun Lido's: A Culinary Journey Through Cambodian-Chinese Fusion

Four months after opening Oun Lido's, chef/co-owner Bounahcree Kim is just getting started. Since debuting his modern Cambodian restaurant in the Old Port this May, Kim has discovered just how much potential his already-dynamite business really holds. And spotting opportunities, he is eager to take advantage of them.

Unlocking the Potential of Cambodian Cuisine in Portland

Evolving Dining Experience

Right now, Oun Lido's offers only takeout, delivery and counter-service meals that can be taken upstairs to the in-progress dining room. But plans are underway for more in the tri-level, former Pat's Pizza space. Much, much more. "We finally got in some tables and chairs so folks can order food and go sit upstairs, but that's just the beginning," he said. "We are taking it floor by floor. We're applying for a liquor license and are going to use part of the dining room as a bar. On the second floor, we're going to have more of an event space with karaoke and dancing. But sooner than that, in the next couple of months, we are going to start offering full table-service dinners."

Embracing the Unfinished Charm

The dining room at Oun Lido's may look unfinished and still evolving into its final form, but that shouldn't deter diners. The sparse furnishings and black ceilings create a unique ambiance that allows the focus to remain on the exceptional food. Chef Kim, an alum of Pai Men Miyake who prefers to be called "Bones," and his business partner, James Beard Award finalist Vien Dobui of Cong Tu Bot, are poised to make Oun Lido's a huge success in this admittedly bizarrely laid-out space.

Innovative Cambodian-Chinese Fusion

The food at Oun Lido's is exceptional already, blending traditional Cambodian cooking with Chinese inspirations. Dishes like the gluten-free banh chao fresh rolls ($12) showcase this fusion, featuring a savory egg crepe (banh chao) made with coconut milk, rice flour and scallions, tucked into a classic rice-paper wrapper. The neorm salad ($14) updates a Cambodian classic with a nuanced, cautiously sweetened fish-sauce dressing, and includes a deep-fried treat in the form of a ground chicken and wood-ear mushroom egg roll (nam chien).

Exploring Nostalgic Flavors

Much of the inspiration for Oun Lido's comes from the lush Wong Kar Wai film, "In the Mood for Love," a food-focused, Chinese-language picture. You can see the movie's influence in street-food dishes that echo bites eaten on screen, like the pork potstickers ($12) fried with a lacey, crispy cornstarch-and-vinegar "skirt" around each dumpling. The loc lac ($23) dish, featuring shaved sirloin in a garlicky glaze and a puckery lime-pepper sauce, is a scene-stealer, drawing inspiration from the film's signature scene.

Elevating Familiar Favorites

Kim and Dobui also mine nostalgia for creative sparks, chiseling out evocative culinary memories and transforming them into noteworthy dishes. The kathew cha ($23), a saucy chicken and shrimp dish prepared with square-cut rice noodles, bean sprouts, peanuts and cilantro, might remind you of pad thai, but it interrupts comparisons with galloping, palate-tickling umami delivered by a tarry, fish-sauce caramel.

Innovative Beverage Offerings

Oun Lido's also offers a unique selection of beverages, including the coconut lime ($6) smoothie, which unites the water, purée, meat and milk of a coconut along with a non-traditional, toned-down sweetness. The Flower Kiss smoothie ($6), however, is the real standout, with its tart, guava-and-apricot flavors and a touch of sweetened condensed milk.

Desserts Inspired by Childhood Memories

The dessert menu at Oun Lido's is a reflection of Kim's childhood memories. The cha houy teuk ($6) is a cool, creamy treat that defies description, with pandan-infused coconut milk forming the broth, and wobbly agar agar jellies, sliced lychee and jackfruit submerged throughout. It's a unique and refreshing dish that will change with the seasons.In conclusion, Oun Lido's is a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a unique and elevated dining experience that celebrates the rich flavors of Cambodian and Cambodian-Chinese cuisine. With its evolving dining spaces, innovative menu, and nostalgic-inspired offerings, Oun Lido's is poised to become a culinary destination in Portland's vibrant food scene.