Since Manuel Emch's arrival in 2021, Louis Erard has flourished, becoming renowned for its diverse collaborations with esteemed watchmakers and its exquisite dials, often integrating traditional decorative arts at approachable price points. The brand is now a benchmark for distinctive horological creations. At Geneva Watch Days, Louis Erard unveiled a special edition piece that highlights the rare artistry of straw marquetry, transforming a simple material into a modern masterpiece on the new Marqueterie de Paille dial, expertly handcrafted by Portuguese artist Bernardo d'Orey.
Louis Erard consistently champions and popularizes traditional artistic crafts, reinterpreting these revered techniques for a modern audience through its handcrafted models. This philosophy is evident in previous designs, such as the Grand Feu by Donzé Cadrans, and the Excellence Guilloché Main I and II, which showcase the intricate craft of engine turning to create captivating Op-Art patterns. Further pushing creative boundaries, Louis Erard partnered with Wire Art to produce a remarkable dial featuring micro-mechanically embroidered gold thread, utilizing repurposed machines originally designed for microcircuit bonding. Three years prior, the brand collaborated with artisan Bastien Chevalier on the Excellence Marqueterie, which boasted an exquisite miniature wood marquetry dial.
The collaboration with Bernardo d'Orey results in a captivating abstract design on the dial, where rye straw is transformed into a rich tapestry of blue hues and intriguing textures. The process begins with the careful selection of rye straw, chosen for its exceptional color, texture, and reflective qualities. Each chosen piece is then meticulously opened and flattened by hand. The intricate geometric pattern comprises 28 distinct sections, varying in shape, size, and fiber orientation, which together create a dynamic interplay of light and texture. Once the layout is complete, Bernardo applies various shades of blue to enhance the layered effect, bringing to life the abstract "Broken Ice" motif. The case, crafted from polished 39mm stainless steel with a height of 12.82mm, features the brand's distinctive fir tree crown. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, and an exhibition window on the caseback allows a glimpse into the movement. Inside, a Sellita SW266-1 élaboré-grade automatic movement with a bespoke open-worked rotor powers the timepiece, offering a 38-hour reserve. The watch is completed with a beige, grained calfskin strap, featuring tone-on-tone stitching, a black calfskin lining, and a polished steel pin buckle. Equipped with quick-release spring bars, the strap can be easily interchanged. This Marqueterie de Paille is a limited edition of 25 pieces, priced at CHF 4,500 (excluding tax).
This innovative timepiece beautifully merges traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, reflecting Louis Erard's dedication to artistic excellence and accessibility. The meticulous handwork and the unique story behind each dial make this watch a testament to human creativity and precision, reminding us of the enduring value of art in everyday objects.
