Growing up in Lexington, Kentucky, I was deeply influenced by my grandmother's tales. She frequently recounted her life in Monticello, a small town in Wayne County within the Appalachian region. Despite the scenic farmland, food scarcity was a common occurrence. With limited grocery stores, long distances between locations, and unreliable transportation, canned and packaged foods became a staple in her diet. Fresh produce was a rare indulgence, and when it was available, it was often beyond their reach. The constant worry of where the next meal would come from haunted her, and her stories of hunger left an indelible mark on me.
Appalachia: A Region Struggling with Food Insecurity
Appalachia, a vast mountainous area spanning 13 states in the eastern United States, extends from southern New York to northern Mississippi. It is renowned for its rural poverty, rugged landscapes, and rich cultural heritage. In Kentucky, the easternmost counties, including Wayne, face significant economic distress. Residents here grapple with limited access to healthcare, education, and food.From 2010 to 2020, there was a slow decrease in food insecurity, but the rate in Appalachia still stands at 13 percent, higher than the national average of 11.5 percent. In the central part of the region, the problem persists, with 17.5 percent of residents sometimes lacking sufficient food for a healthy lifestyle. Given that nearly 23 percent of Black individuals in the U.S. experience food insecurity, which is almost 2.5 times higher than that of white individuals, Black residents in Appalachia are particularly affected.Access to grocery stores differs significantly between urban and rural areas in Appalachia. In urban Appalachian counties, residents have multiple grocery stores nearby, making it easier to access a variety of food. However, in rural Appalachian counties, the per capita number of grocery stores is lower. A study by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Economic Research Service revealed that between 1990 and 2015, the median number of grocery stores per capita in rural non-metropolitan counties decreased by 40 percent, indicating a substantial decline in food retail options over time.This disparity forces rural residents to travel long distances to reach the nearest grocery store. Limited transportation options and rugged terrain further exacerbate this challenge. As a result, many rely on convenience stores or gas stations, which offer fewer healthy food choices at higher prices, leading to poorer diets and increased health risks."The Thompsons frequently had to make difficult choices. They had to prioritize selling their crops to earn enough to feed themselves, which sometimes meant sacrificing their own diet," said a local community leader.For Black residents, these physical obstacles are compounded by a history of systemic racial and economic injustices. For generations, discriminatory practices such as redlining, discriminatory agricultural lending, and heirs' property laws have restricted their economic opportunities. These policies have limited access to land ownership and farming resources, perpetuating cycles of poverty and food insecurity.The harsh realities I witnessed through my grandmother stayed with me as I grew older. It was this experience that motivated me to pursue a career in combating food insecurity on a national scale. At the beginning of my career, I obtained a master's degree in community and leadership development at the University of Kentucky, with a specific focus on hunger disparities.During the field research I conducted from 2015 to 2017, I visited hollers (small mountain valleys) in the Appalachian region of the state to talk to residents about the difficulties they faced in accessing food. On one of these trips to eastern Kentucky, I met Mr. and Mrs. Thompson (whose names I changed to protect their identities), a Black couple in their 60s.For over 30 years, the Thompsons had farmed on 20 acres, growing tomatoes, green beans, and squash—basic crops intended to provide food for themselves and the local community. But with the nearest market 40 miles away, it was nearly impossible to sell their produce consistently. And without cold storage facilities, a significant portion of their harvest spoiled before it could be transported. The Thompsons often had to choose between selling their crops to buy food or heating their home. They also witnessed children in their community going to bed hungry. Their resilience was evident, but the struggle continued. Hearing them describe similar issues that my grandmother faced made me firmly believe in the need for targeted and effective interventions.Talking to the Thompsons and others like them made me realize the extent to which food insecurity in Black Appalachian communities has been ignored by policymakers and organizations at all levels.A Playbook for Combatting Food Insecurity in Black Rural AppalachiaAs the head of the Food Security Equity Impact Fund at Feeding America, a network of over 200 food banks across the U.S. from 2022 to 2024, I managed $30 million in grant funding to address food insecurity. I directed resources towards increasing food access and empowering communities to establish their own sustainable food production sources. For instance, I funded sustainable agricultural initiatives by Black and Indigenous farmers.