This article recounts a captivating journey to St. Moritz, where the thrill of driving vintage Ferraris on a frozen lake intertwines with the town's vibrant social scene and cultural offerings. The author vividly describes the unique atmosphere of this exclusive alpine resort, highlighting both high-octane automotive adventures and serene artistic encounters. From the exhilarating drifts on the ice to the sophisticated art exhibitions and glamorous social events, the narrative paints a rich picture of a destination that effortlessly blends luxury, adventure, and culture. The experience culminates in an unforgettable driving lesson with a seasoned instructor, emphasizing the joy and skill involved in mastering these classic vehicles in an extraordinary setting.
Upon arriving in St. Moritz, the breathtaking vista of St. Moritzersee, a vast frozen lake, immediately captures attention. It's a scene bustling with activity, from ice-fishing and cross-country skiing to a grand assembly of rare automobiles, vintage aircraft, and even a hot-air balloon. The sky itself becomes a stage for an awe-inspiring aerial display by the Patrouille Suisse, the Swiss Air Force’s aerobatics team, whose fighter jets perform spectacular maneuvers. On the ice, the International Concours of Elegance, or I.C.E., draws an elite crowd of car enthusiasts and collectors. The event's atmosphere is one of opulent display, where cashmere attire is de rigueur and the roar of powerful engines provides a constant backdrop to the sophisticated gatherings.
The author's primary purpose for visiting St. Moritz is to participate in Ferrari's renowned driving school, the Corso Pilota Classiche. This exclusive program offers the opportunity to drive a selection of vintage Ferraris on a specially prepared ice track. Before the main event, a leisurely stroll leads to the Vito Schnabel Gallery on Via Maistra, the town's elegant main street. Here, an exhibition of Ron Gorchov's vibrant, curved canvases provides a visual feast, but the author is particularly drawn to the more intimate works of the late Rene Ricard, a multifaceted artist whose pieces evoke a profound sense of peace, starkly contrasting with his tumultuous life and the bustling world outside the gallery's doors.
The evening unfolds with a visit to the pop-up Casa Ferrari, a hub of chic fashion and lively entertainment. The author notes the distinctive haute-Tyrolean style prevalent in St. Moritz, a blend of traditional alpine elegance and modern luxury. Observing the town's elite, including Lapo Elkann, enjoying an ice-skating performance against the backdrop of Carsten Höller’s 'Pink Mirror Carousel,' reinforces the unique blend of sophistication and spectacle. A gala at Badrutt's Palace, set to a live jazz band, further exemplifies the town's vibrant social scene. The night concludes with an amusing incident involving the smell of 'burning cashmere,' signaling a colorful end to the pre-driving festivities.
The next morning marks the highlight of the trip: the ice driving experience on the frozen lake. A fleet of five immaculate vintage Ferraris awaits, including a 1968 V12 365 GTB4 Daytona, two 1970s 308s, a 1980 Mondial, and the formidable 550 Maranello. Participants gather at Ferrari's pop-up clubhouse for espresso and a crucial lesson on the art of drifting. The instructors emphasize precise braking, turning, and counter-steering techniques, preparing drivers for the unique challenges of the ice track. Each participant is paired with a seasoned instructor, whose guidance proves invaluable in navigating the slippery conditions and ensuring safety.
The initial moments on the track in the Daytona are a mix of relief and growing confidence. The relatively lower speeds (40-60 mph) on the ice, compared to high-speed track driving, allow for an enjoyable and educational experience with minimal risk. The author attributes their success entirely to the expert guidance of Alberto, an instructor with over 40 years of experience. Alberto’s continuous encouragement, praise, warnings, and timely alarms of impending mishaps keep the author focused and safe. His vocal instructions, a precise symphony of commands like 'brake, brake, brake,' 'turn, turn, turn,' and 'gas, gas, gas,' become the soundtrack to mastering each corner.
As the sun begins to set over the surrounding mountains, the participants continue to race in circles, switching cars with each session. The Mondial proves to be the most manageable, the Maranello an untamed beast, and the Daytona a challenging yet rewarding vehicle to master. The entire day is an intoxicating blend of adrenaline, euphoria, and wide-eyed wonder. Following the exhilarating driving experience, the group heads to the White Marmot at the top of the Corviglia, St. Moritz’s home mountain, for a high-altitude farewell dinner. Despite a valiant effort in a time trial that nearly led to a podium finish, a mistimed burst of acceleration results in a gentle collision with a snowbank, ending the author's hopes of a trophy.
The culmination of this extraordinary trip sees the author contemplating a visit to the renowned Dracula Club, a legendary spot frequented by St. Moritz’s elite. However, the day's excitement leads to an early night, filled with dreams of horsepower and the unforgettable experiences on the frozen lake. The journey underscores St. Moritz's appeal as a destination where high-octane sports, luxurious social events, and rich cultural experiences converge to create a truly unique and memorable adventure, blending the thrill of speed with the serene beauty of the alpine landscape.
