The year began with Pat McGrath's viral porcelain doll make-up for John Galliano's Maison Margiela Artisanal S/S 2024 show. The models, including Gwendoline Christie, walked beneath the arches of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, dressed as dolls from Émile Zola's demi-monde. This look immediately captured the attention of the beauty community, with countless beauty creators trying to decode the secret formula for the waxen, porcelain skin. McGrath herself later shared the long list of products used, including a unique combination of peeling masques and a hairdryer. It's clear that beauty on the runway can have a significant impact on the beauty industry.
Marc Jacobs also made a big splash in the beauty world this year. He collaborated with Pat McGrath on a limited edition 'MatteTrance' lipstick to mark the 40th anniversary of his brand. On the runway, models like Alex Consani and Kaia Gerber were transformed into living dolls, with clumped eye make-up by Diane Kendal and 1960s-esque bouffants from Duffy. The brand's second show of the year for A/W 2024 took the doll theme even further, with models sporting cartoonish overblown pastel eyelid covers.
At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing used the S/S 2025 show to toast a new line of perfumes called 'Les Éternels' and tease yet-to-be-released Balmain Beauty products. Flacon-shaped clutches, trompe l'oeil lipstick heels, and eyeshadow palette pochettes were featured alongside dresses embroidered with scarlet tinted lips and lacquered nails. In 2022, Balmain partnered with Estée Lauder to bring Balmain Beauty to life, and William P. Lauder watched the collection unfold from the front row.
Independent label Abra leaned into beauty-inspired design for its A/W 2024 show. Make-up brushes were transformed into necklaces, while lipsticks and mini eyeshadow palettes became earrings and brooches. There was also an oversized white T-shirt dress that seemed to have foundation smudges, adding a touch of realism to the collection.
Celine's first-ever make-up product, 'Le Rouge Celine', was a classic satin-finish scarlet hue in an exquisite gold case, developed under the direction of Hedi Slimane. The entire Celine Beauté cosmetics line is set to continue under his successor Michael Rider, with more products like eyeliner and eye pencils coming next year. Victoria Beckham's beauty empire also expanded with a collaboration with Augustinus Bader on a concealer pen containing TFC8 technology. Augustinus Bader has a history of fashion partnerships and has previously teamed up with Haider Ackermann.
Acolytes of Matthieu Blazy's Bottega Veneta were treated to scented candles in volcano-glazed pots and five perfumes inspired by Venice. Each perfume was housed in a glass bottle that echoed the texture of handblown Murano and perched on a miniature Verde Saint Denis marble plinth.
Dries van Noten took a final bow as creative director after almost a decade at the helm. However, he will continue to work on the brand's beauty and fragrance division, leaving us excited to see how it will develop. Julian Klausner will succeed him. Perhaps the most anticipated launch of next year is the arrival of Miu Miu beauty through a licensing agreement with L'Oréal. This expands the Prada Group's beauty foothold, which was established in 2023 with Prada Beauty under the creative direction of Lyndsey Alexander. It will also be interesting to see how Matthieu Blazy's creative vision influences Chanel's beauty and fragrance line.
In conclusion, 2024 was a year of significant growth and innovation in the beauty and fashion industries. The crossovers between the two disciplines have set the tone for 2025 and beyond, and we can't wait to see what the future holds.