The history of racializing fast food as Black

Nov 8, 2024 at 8:20 PM
Uncovering the Racial Divide: The Troubling Ties Between Fast Food and Black CommunitiesSouthern California has long been the epicenter of the fast food industry, serving as the birthplace for numerous iconic chains like McDonald's, In-N-Out, Taco Bell, and Jack in the Box. These success stories are often hailed as shining examples of American entrepreneurship and opportunity. However, a closer examination reveals a more complex and troubling reality – the disproportionate presence of fast food establishments in Black communities, and the ways in which this phenomenon has deepened socioeconomic divides and led to exploitation.

Exposing the Racial Bias in Fast Food Expansion

The Roots of First-Generation Fast Food

The origins of the fast food industry can be traced back to the early 1900s, a period known as the "nadir of race relations" in the United States. This first generation of fast food establishments, including the iconic White Castle, catered primarily to a working-class, male clientele. These restaurants were strategically located in urban centers, near transit hubs and workplaces, offering a simple, affordable meal for the laborer on the go.Interestingly, the design and branding of these early fast food establishments were heavily influenced by the desire to convey a sense of purity and cleanliness, with the use of white tiles, shiny surfaces, and even the inclusion of "white" in the names of many chains. This was not merely a practical consideration, but also a deliberate attempt to signal the social whiteness and respectability of the dining experience, in contrast to the perceived uncleanliness and undesirability of the urban centers where these restaurants were situated.

The Suburban Shift and the Rise of Second-Generation Fast Food

As the mid-20th century approached, the landscape of fast food began to shift. The second generation of fast food chains, such as McDonald's, Burger King, and KFC, emerged in the 1950s and targeted a different demographic – suburban families. This transition was fueled by the mass exodus of white residents from urban centers, facilitated by federal programs that enabled the growth of the suburbs.With the white population moving out of the cities, many businesses followed suit, including the burgeoning fast food industry. These new suburban-focused chains sought to appeal to the ideals of white domestic space, offering a "wholesome" and "fun" dining experience for white families and their children. The purity and cleanliness that had characterized the first generation of fast food now became associated with the sanctity of the suburban lifestyle.

Redlining and the Concentration of Fast Food in Black Communities

The role of redlining, a discriminatory practice that denied access to capital and investment in certain neighborhoods, played a significant part in shaping the distribution of fast food establishments. As white residents and businesses fled the urban centers, the disinvestment and devaluation of these areas made them less desirable for the second-generation fast food chains. However, this also created an opportunity for the first-generation establishments, which found themselves in a prime position to capitalize on the changing demographics and lower real estate costs in the urban core.Ironically, as the second-generation fast food chains thrived in the suburbs, the first-generation establishments faced declining customer bases and struggled to maintain their presence in the urban centers. This dynamic ultimately led to the concentration of fast food outlets in predominantly Black communities, further entrenching the racial and socioeconomic divides that had been exacerbated by redlining and other discriminatory policies.

The Enduring Legacy of Racial Exploitation

The story of Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) provides a poignant example of the complex racial dynamics that have shaped the fast food industry. Founded in 1952 in Corbin, Kentucky, a notorious "sundown town" where Black people were not welcome after dark, KFC's origins are deeply rooted in the exploitation of Black culinary traditions. The original recipe, according to the founder Harlan Sanders, was taught to him by "an old darkie" from Kentucky, a clear appropriation of Black culinary knowledge and labor.As KFC expanded and became one of the most recognizable fast food brands, its association with Blackness only grew stronger. Today, the chain is widely perceived as a quintessentially "Black" fast food option, a perception that has persisted for decades. This racialization of KFC, and by extension the fast food industry as a whole, has had profound implications for the health and well-being of Black communities, who have been disproportionately targeted and impacted by the proliferation of these establishments.

The Changing Landscape of Fast Food

In recent decades, the fast food industry has undergone some shifts, with the emergence of a "third generation" of establishments that cater more to white affluence, such as Shake Shack. These newer chains often evoke a sense of nostalgia for the roadside stand of the past, while distancing themselves from the racial associations that have long plagued the industry.However, the fundamental patterns of fast food distribution and targeting have remained largely unchanged. The industry continues to maintain a strong presence in Black communities, contributing to the perpetuation of health disparities and the erosion of local food economies. As the broader food landscape evolves, with a growing emphasis on local, organic, and artisanal options, the fast food industry finds itself in a precarious position, struggling to maintain relevance and appeal.The complex history and ongoing impact of the fast food industry on Black communities underscores the need for a deeper understanding of the racial dynamics that have shaped this ubiquitous aspect of American culture. By unpacking these issues, we can work towards a more equitable and inclusive food system that serves the needs of all communities, regardless of race or socioeconomic status.