Once a niche aesthetic for outdoor enthusiasts, Gorpcore fashion has permeated mainstream trends, bringing with it both innovation and unforeseen environmental challenges. This article sheds light on the widespread use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in performance apparel, materials renowned for their water and stain-repellent properties. While these "forever chemicals" offer superior functionality, their environmental persistence and adverse health effects, ranging from developmental delays to various cancers, are raising alarm bells. We will explore the ongoing efforts by pioneering brands such as Patagonia and Páramo to transition to PFAS-free alternatives, the complexities involved in this systemic shift, and the crucial role of consumer education and responsible manufacturing in shaping a more sustainable future for the textile industry.
PFAS, a class of synthetic chemicals celebrated for their exceptional resistance to water, oil, and stains, have become ubiquitous in outdoor clothing. They are integrated into waterproof coatings, stain-resistant finishes, odor control treatments, and even some membranes, ensuring garments repel the elements effectively. However, Dr. Daniel Waterkamp of Bluesign, an organization dedicated to safe chemical management, emphasizes the urgent problem posed by PFAS. He explains that these chemicals are incredibly persistent and mobile, having spread globally, even reaching the Arctic. Alarmingly, some PFAS variants have been shown to bioaccumulate in the human body and are linked to carcinogenic effects and reproductive toxicity, underscoring the severe health and environmental risks.
Despite increasing public awareness, the outdoor sector has struggled to fully divest from PFAS due to the highly specialized and globally interconnected nature of its technical supply chain. Matt Dwyer, VP of product footprint at Patagonia, details the decade-long journey his company undertook to eliminate intentionally added PFAS from its product lines without compromising quality. He distinguishes between chemicals deliberately used in production and unintentional trace contamination. Patagonia's collaboration with Gore-Tex led to the development of expanded polyethylene (ePE), a non-toxic, PFAS-free alternative for waterproof membranes, setting a precedent for industry-wide advancement.
Rebecca Fuoco, director of science communications at the Green Science Policy Institute, affirms that while systemic change is achievable, it remains incomplete. She points to the intricate supply chain as a significant hurdle, as textile mills, finishers, laminators, and membrane suppliers have extensive experience with fluorinated products. Transitioning to new materials necessitates retooling, new process controls, revised testing protocols, and the establishment of new supplier relationships. Nevertheless, the successful transitions of brands like Keen and Houdini, which have been PFAS-free for years, and Patagonia's impending complete shift by spring 2025, demonstrate the practical and economic viability of such changes.
The health ramifications of PFAS are extensively documented. Fuoco highlights links to thyroid dysfunction, liver and kidney damage, compromised immune responses, hormonal imbalances, developmental issues in children, and various cancers. While direct skin contact with clothing results in minimal PFAS absorption, the chemicals shed into household dust, which can then be inhaled or ingested. This contributes to a cumulative body burden over time, with textile workers experiencing significantly higher PFAS levels and elevated risks of liver disease and cancer.
Beyond waterproofing, performance apparel often relies on complex chemical systems for a multitude of functions, including stain repellency, wicking properties, flame retardancy, anti-pilling coatings, anti-fungal treatments, and solvent-heavy laminates. Odor-control finishes, often promoted as a key benefit of Gorpcore clothing, serve as a prime example. While some antimicrobial formulations can be effective under specific conditions, many show limited or inconsistent efficacy. Fuoco cautions that some of these treatments release metals and biocides into wastewater and expose workers to chemicals associated with skin and respiratory problems, reproductive harm, and microbiome disruption.
These chemicals do not merely impact the wearer; they traverse the entire garment lifecycle, being released during manufacturing, washing, and disposal. Conventional wastewater treatment facilities are often incapable of fully filtering out PFAS or many antimicrobial agents, leading to their accumulation in rivers, soil, agricultural systems, and even drinking water. Once released, many of these substances persist for decades. Furthermore, everyday wear and tear – such as backpacks rubbing against jackets or sleeves brushing against surfaces – causes technical coatings to erode, releasing microplastics and chemical-laden dust into the environment. Paradoxically, high-performance fabrics designed for durability in harsh conditions shed more frequently when subjected to casual use and regular washing, exacerbating environmental contamination.
Some brands are actively demonstrating how high performance can be achieved without relying on PFAS. Páramo, a long-standing innovator in the outdoor sector, has consistently built its waterproofing system around a PFAS-free methodology. Their Analogy waterproofing system, developed in partnership with PFAS-free specialist Nikwax, delivers exceptional breathability without the need for laminates, membranes, or taped seams, as explained by Samantha Theron, Páramo’s head of marketing and communications.
This innovative system employs a two-layer construction. The outer layer consists of a tightly woven synthetic microfiber, typically nylon or polyester, treated with a durable, water-repellent (DWR) finish. This DWR is a water-based, non-fluorinated polymer designed to bond with the fibers, enabling the fabric surface to effectively shed rain. Beneath this lies an inner "pump liner," also made from synthetic fibers, engineered to wick liquid water, such as sweat or condensation, outwards, mimicking the natural water-repellent properties of animal fur.
A critical advantage of this design is the absence of bonded membranes or taped seams, which reduces potential points of failure. The waterproofing can be indefinitely renewed using Nikwax’s water-based aftercare products. However, this approach does have trade-offs: garments are generally heavier and warmer than those with membrane-based shells, and like all synthetics, they can still shed microfibers during washing, underscoring that being PFAS-free doesn't automatically imply zero environmental impact. Páramo also champions maintenance as a cornerstone of sustainability. Theron emphasizes that the most eco-conscious choice is to maintain existing gear rather than constantly replacing it. Proper cleaning and reproofing significantly extend the lifespan of technical garments, and while PFAS-free coatings might require more frequent upkeep, performance can be readily restored with Nikwax aftercare. The brand proudly states that many of its original jackets remain in daily use and perform effectively after 15 years or more.
Durability is also a core tenet of Patagonia’s transition away from PFAS. Dwyer explains that developing non-PFAS DWR for technical applications necessitated rigorous testing of hundreds of fabric and treatment combinations to meet both performance and environmental responsibility standards. Not every waterproofing method was compatible with every material, requiring a systematic approach to identify optimal solutions. The team found that some initial PFAS-free chemistries simply didn't perform adequately, with certain coatings causing stiffness, noise, reduced breathability, or quicker "wet-out" compared to their fluorinated counterparts. In some instances, alternatives compromised abrasion resistance or tear strength, prompting Patagonia to re-evaluate fabric construction or restrict the use of certain treatments. Dwyer views these setbacks as an integral part of the learning process, highlighting that moving away from PFAS often involves navigating trade-offs between performance, durability, and environmental impact, rather than finding a singular, universal substitute.
Patagonia's strategy also involved scrutinizing existing applications of PFAS and related chemicals to identify instances where they were unnecessary. Dwyer notes that the company began replacing these chemicals in non-critical applications with suitable substitutes or entirely discontinuing their use in some cases. For example, the inner lining of Patagonia’s Black Hole bags, renowned for their weather-resistant design, previously utilized PFAS-based treatments, despite the bags being primarily for transport rather than extreme waterproofing. By removing the PFAS-treated lining, Patagonia eliminated a non-essential use of PFAS. The final phase of this decade-long transition, involving their fly-fishing waders, is set to conclude in spring 2025.
The company is also actively exploring end-of-life solutions, a critical area where technical apparel currently lags. Patagonia’s Nano Puff program, for instance, collects irreparable items and sends them to a specialized recycler in Texas, established by material innovation company Eastman. Here, these garments are processed into new fibers, illustrating a potential circular future for performance gear. In 2024, Patagonia reportedly shipped approximately 8,000 pounds of unusable apparel to this system—a promising proof of concept, yet still a tiny fraction of global textile waste. This process comes with significant caveats: Eastman only accepts pure polyester feedstock, free of zippers, buttons, and other non-fabric components, requiring meticulous sorting and stripping before recycling. These limitations explain why textile-to-textile schemes remain largely experimental rather than widely scalable, even as they hint at a more circular future for performance wear.
Patagonia also reinforces circularity through its Worn Wear program, which provides repair services and guidance on product care. Last year, the program repaired over 170,000 products globally. Dwyer emphasizes, “The most responsible product is the one you already own.” He adds that the company constantly questions whether responsible growth is feasible without compromising its values, prompting inquiries like: is this product truly necessary? Can it be repaired? Will it last? And can its environmental impact be reduced? This responsibility also extends to educating consumers about non-PFAS chemistries, which, Dwyer points out, are more vulnerable to external contaminants like oils or sweat, thereby requiring more consistent care to maintain performance.
As claims of "PFAS-free" become more prevalent, experts caution against simplistic marketing that can obscure a more complex reality. Labels like "PFAS-free" or "chemical safe" often imply an absolute level of safety that chemistry rarely provides. Dr. Waterkamp of Bluesign asserts that such expressions can be misleading. To prevent greenwashing, brands should collaborate with partners to integrate technical expertise with robust digital tools for recording, verifying, and managing environmental impact data.
Some brands have already adopted this rigorous scrutiny internally. In 2014, amid mounting evidence of the harmful and persistent nature of fluorinated chemicals, Páramo introduced a fabric-testing protocol guaranteeing the complete exclusion of PFAS across all its products and processes. This test, known as combustion ion chromatography, employs high-temperature combustion followed by ion analysis to detect even trace fluorinated substances. However, relatively few outdoor brands have embraced this method, partly due to its technical demands, the need for specialized laboratory equipment and expertise, and its higher cost compared to simpler spot checks. Practical limitations also exist: the test is typically applied to selected samples rather than every single item, and it cannot independently resolve upstream issues in complex global supply chains, thus offering no absolute guarantee in practice.
Beyond the chemical discussions lies a more uncomfortable truth: the growth model of the outdoor industry itself poses a sustainability challenge. As Gorpcore continues to propel performance gear into everyday fashion, many brands are now designing for "newness" rather than longevity. This results in the frequent production of more styles for a broader, less specialized customer base. These garments are often worn daily rather than for occasional outdoor activities, leading to faster wear and tear. This accelerates replacement cycles and, consequently, increases the overall volume of PFAS-treated products entering the world, regardless of chemical formulations. Patagonia's Dwyer underscores the necessity of a paradigm shift in consumer identity. He argues, “If we want people to start seeing themselves as product owners rather than consumers, we as businesses must help explain why that’s necessary and what that means.” This entails businesses investing in the creation of high-quality, repairable products and actively researching responsible end-of-life solutions. Dwyer concludes that the industry must abandon the notion of sustainability as a mere selling point, asserting, “Nothing we do is sustainable. We have to move past using environmental responsibility as a marketing claim or a product benefit. Environmental responsibility must become the norm for all companies.”
