Harris Reed brought porcelain doll beauty to life on the London Fashion Week catwalk

Sep 14, 2024 at 8:43 AM

Elevating the Runway: Harris Reed's Visionary Showcase at London Fashion Week

The recent Harris Reed spring/summer 2025 show marked a significant milestone in the fashion calendar, signaling the official start of London Fashion Week and offering a glimpse into the captivating makeup and hair trends set to dominate the coming year. From architectural lace-adorned gowns to upcycled 19th-century French tapestries, Reed's meticulously curated collection showcased a harmonious blend of exaggerated silhouettes, corseted waists, and an ethereal array of storytelling beauty looks, all brought to life by the renowned makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury.

Redefining Glamour through Upcycling and Theatrics

Embracing the Past, Envisioning the Future

Reed's creative vision for the season was rooted in a deep appreciation for materials and a desire to breathe new life into existing objects. "The inspiration for the show this season started with materials; everything was found materials, from home furnishings, headboards, damask curtains and tablecloths," Reed reveals to Harper's Bazaar UK. "Every silhouette came to life based on this idea of existing objects and reimagining them within the demi-couture world of Harris Reed." This innovative approach to upcycling allowed Reed to champion sustainability while elevating the collection to new heights of glamour and elegance.The designer's unwavering passion for the theatrical and romantic aspects of fashion was also evident in the collection. "We took pointers and inspirations from the past couple of seasons, this idea of romanticism, Victoriana, bringing in theatrics," Reed explains. "It was about championing this idea of upcycling in a really glamorous, elevated and elegant way."

Channeling the Spirit of London

Reed's creative vision was deeply rooted in his love for the city that hosts his theatrical runways each season. "London, for me, is a space I dreamt about as a young kid, looking through the pages of magazines and newspapers for early Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen shows," he shares. "Theatre is such a fundamental part of London."The designer's muses, such as the iconic model Erin O'Connor and the trailblazing Deborah Shaw, further embodied the unapologetic and character-driven essence that Reed sought to capture. "I look at Deborah Shaw, a model that I've admired for so many years, as a massive muse of mine," Reed says. "She embodies that unapologetic way of being a character that I think is so rare in today's world."

Makeup as a Transformative Tool

For Reed, the synergy between fashion and beauty is paramount, with the makeup and hair designs playing a crucial role in bringing his visions to life. "I always try to illustrate the designs with hats and with some kind of make-up, because I think it plays such an important role," he explains. "At Harris Reed, we don't just make clothes, we make characters. Make-up is so fundamental in all of that because it really takes the wear into a whole space. It really helps people transport themselves into the character that they need to play."Collaborating closely with makeup artist Sofia Schwarzkopf-Tilbury, Reed sought to create a nineties-meets-19th-century porcelain doll aesthetic for the SS25 collection, titled 'Encore.' The result was a captivating blend of fluttering, clustered eyelashes, washes of eyeshadow in icy blue and warm tangerine shades, and tiny rose-bud lipstick shapes.

Capturing the Essence of the Collection

Schwarzkopf-Tilbury's approach to the makeup design was deeply informed by the architectural and theatrical elements of Reed's garments. "His designs have such an unmistakable presence in the room and a unique architecture that reflects how much of a visionary he is," she explains. "For this iconic show, we wanted to create a make-up look that spoke to the 19th-century French silhouettes that Harris was inspired by for this season, while using bright colours and opulent textures captured in the wide-eyed blue and orange eyes and doll-like lips."The makeup artist's attention to detail and understanding of Reed's creative vision resulted in a captivating look that seamlessly complemented the collection. "I've always been so fascinated and in awe of that otherworldly fantasy he creates," Schwarzkopf-Tilbury shares.

Foreshadowing the Makeup Trends of the Future

While the theatrical makeup look may not be suitable for everyday wear, Schwarzkopf-Tilbury notes that its individual elements are a harbinger of the makeup trends to come. "I think we'll be seeing a lot of bold statement eyes with vibrant washes of both matte and metallic colour across the lids, plus lashings of mascara," she predicts.The collaboration between Reed and Schwarzkopf-Tilbury has once again demonstrated the power of fashion and beauty to create a truly immersive and transformative experience. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the next chapter of Harris Reed's visionary journey, the impact of this groundbreaking showcase is sure to reverberate throughout the industry, inspiring a new generation of designers and makeup artists to push the boundaries of creativity and self-expression.