In the United States, a remarkable tapestry of people, food, and culture weaves together. Major cities such as New York, Chicago, and Los Angeles offer a culinary paradise where one can find a wide array of cuisines to satisfy their cravings. However, as Chef Sean Sherman of the Oglala Lakota Tribe has emphasized, these cities have a dearth of restaurants dedicated to Indigenous cuisines from the over 570 recognized American Indian tribes and Alaska Native entities. Each tribe possesses its unique food traditions that have been passed down through generations.

Reviving Indigenous Cuisine: Eateries Making a Difference

Eateries like Watecha Bowl, Tocabe: An American Indian Eatery, and Owamni are at the forefront of changing this narrative. Watecha Bowl, owned by Lawrence West of the Cheyenne River Sioux Tribe, is a fast-food eatery in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, serving food and flavors from the Lakota Nation. West has had the privilege of feeding people from all 50 states and this year, his restaurant is giving out Indian tacos in exchange for toys to be donated to local Native American kids in foster care.Tocabe: An American Indian Eatery, founded by Ben Jacobs, a tribal member of the Osage Nation of northeast Oklahoma, is a fast-casual restaurant in Denver, Colorado. It aims to "rebuild the original American food system" by serving build-your-own Native American food. The restaurant still shares stories of community, culture, and identity more than 16 years after its opening.Chef Sean Sherman's restaurant Owamni in Minneapolis, Minnesota, aims to "decolonize" the dining experience by purchasing ingredients from Indigenous food producers. Sherman believes that this restaurant is unique and part of the goal is to normalize healthy and Indigenous food.

Essential Native American Dishes to Try

Wojapi, a thick berry sauce, is one of the most traditional foods of the American plains. It can be used in various ways, such as a dip, on frybread, or with meat. Bison, particularly chislic invented in South Dakota, is another must-try. Wild rice with maple syrup also holds a special place.Frybread is one of the most popular Native American foods. It became popular out of necessity during the time of forced assimilation when the U.S. government provided stipends. Jacobs emphasizes that common ingredients found in local grocery stores like corn, beans, squash, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and chillies are Native foods as well. The Tacobe Indigenous Marketplace offers these ingredients sourced from Native producers on tribal lands.

History of Native American Food and Its Challenges

Native American food is not mainstream due to various reasons. Sherman pointed to the concept of "manifest destiny" and the U.S. government's aim of forced assimilation through laws like The Indian Removal Act of 1830, The Homestead Act of 1862, and The Dawes Act of 1887. These policies disrupted Native food systems, leading to food insecurity and poor health outcomes.According to Britannica, The Trail of Tears refers to the forced relocation of Native people in the Southeastern U.S. during the 1830s, with an estimated 100,000 indigenous people being forcibly removed from their homes. The Center on Budget and Policy Priorities (CBPP) stated that the U.S. has made treaties with tribes since the 1700s, promising rations but often providing unhealthy food like lard, wheat, and flour.Despite these challenges, Jacobs believes that after centuries of the American government deconstructing Native food systems, "we're trying to rebuild." He hopes that all Americans will understand where our food comes from and appreciate the story behind it.