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The Majestic David Webb "Demon Mask" Necklace: A Pre-Columbian Inspired Masterpiece Takes Center Stage
Among the highlights of Gabriela Hearst's curated selection is a breathtaking David Webb necklace, a true marvel of design and craftsmanship. This substantial piece, dubbed the "Demon Mask" necklace-brooch, draws inspiration from pre-Columbian aesthetics, featuring a intricately carved nephrite mask. It is further enhanced by a textured gold headdress, meticulously set cabochon amethysts, and an array of other magnificent gemstones. Hearst's immediate admiration for this distinctive adornment underscores its exceptional quality and artistic allure.
Hearst's Philanthropic Legacy: The "Alpha and Omega" Earrings Supporting Amazon Frontlines
This collaboration represents Sotheby's first venture with a fashion designer, a partnership Gabriela Hearst describes as harmonious and fulfilling. With a lifelong passion for jewelry design, Hearst has contributed her own creation to the auction: a pair of earrings named "Alpha and Omega." These exquisite pieces, featuring emeralds, sapphires, and a striking round ruby, are not only a testament to her design prowess but also serve a noble cause. Proceeds from their sale will benefit Amazon Frontlines, an organization dedicated to safeguarding the rights and territories of Indigenous communities in the Amazon. The innovative design allows these earrings to transform into studs and pendants, offering versatile styling options.
A Glimpse into the Curated Collection: Unconventional Timepieces and Bohemian Charms
Hearst's task was to choose merely ten items from the impressive array of approximately 150 lots, a decision she made with remarkable swiftness, driven by instinct rather than conventional appeal. Her selections lean towards the wonderfully unusual, exemplified by an Art Deco diamond wristwatch. This timepiece foregoes a typical glass crystal, instead featuring a portrait diamond through which one views the time, adding an element of surprise and unique sophistication. Her discerning eye also captured a pair of Hemmerle earrings, distinguished by their bohemian spirit and the audacious combination of woolly mammoth ivory disks with brilliant diamonds. Additionally, two strands of graduated mine-cut diamonds, ingeniously reassembled from other pieces by the legendary Fred Leighton, offer the versatility of being worn as individual necklaces or combined into a single, extended strand.
Iconic Designers and Dazzling Gems: JAR, Bulgari, and the Allure of Natural Pearls
The auction further showcases masterpieces from other celebrated jewelers. Joel Arthur Rosenthal, known for his extraordinary JAR creations, is represented by a pair of earclips. Initially perceived by Hearst as symbolic of bruised hearts, these pieces are in fact inspired by physalis fruits, meticulously adorned with pink and red spinels, orange sapphires, and suspended from diamond-set chains. Bulgari's contribution is a stunning ring, boasting two cushion-cut diamonds totaling 6.62 carats, complemented by calibré-cut rubies and emeralds, reflecting the vibrant colors of the Italian flag. Hearst's profound connection to nature is evident in her choice of a strand of natural pearls from around 1915. These exceptional pearls are distinguished by a clasp that is, unexpectedly, a vivid blue diamond, challenging traditional jewelry conventions. This selection recalls the historical value of natural pearls, once so prized that the Cartier building on Fifth Avenue was famously exchanged for a pearl necklace in 1917.
The Ultimate Gemstone: A Piece of Untamed Magic Awaiting its Destiny
Beyond the finished pieces, Hearst's curation includes a captivating unset gemstone: a fancy vivid orangy pink diamond, weighing 3.27 carats. This rare and exquisite stone awaits its future owner's vision to transform it into a personalized work of art. Hearst eloquently describes this magnificent gem, and indeed her entire selection, as akin to holding "a little piece of magic," encapsulating the wonder and allure of these exceptional jewels. The public exhibition of Gabriela Hearst's curated collection will open at Sotheby's new global headquarters on December 5, culminating in the live auction on December 9.
