In a recent development, the French Agency for Food, Environmental, and Occupational Health Safety (ANSES) has raised concerns about the safety of hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid. Following reports of severe adverse reactions among users, ANSES has advised against the use and sale of these products until further investigation is completed. The agency’s findings suggest a strong correlation between glyoxylic acid and acute renal failure, prompting calls for a comprehensive risk assessment at the European level.

Concerns Emerge Over Glyoxylic Acid in Hair Treatments

In the autumn of 2023, amid growing health concerns, the French Agency for Food, Environmental, and Occupational Health Safety (ANSES) issued a precautionary warning regarding hair straightening treatments that contain glyoxylic acid. This decision was made after several women experienced serious health issues following salon treatments. The agency concluded that there is a “very highly probable” link between glyoxylic acid and acute kidney damage. According to their research, the substance can enter the bloodstream through the scalp, transforming into calcium oxalate crystals that harm the kidneys.

ANSES has called for an urgent risk assessment across Europe, recommending either limitations or a complete ban on the use of glyoxylic acid in hair care products. Some formulations may contain up to 25% of this potentially harmful ingredient. Additionally, the agency has highlighted the need to identify other substances that could break down into glyoxylic acid or release formaldehyde—a known carcinogen—during the heating process used in hair treatments.

The issue is not isolated to France. Since 2022, Israel has banned hair straightening products containing glyoxylic acid due to similar health concerns. Between 2019 and 2022, Israeli authorities documented 26 cases of severe acute renal failure linked to these products. Symptoms included abdominal and lower back pain, nausea, vomiting, and skin rashes. Notably, patients’ kidney function returned to normal after rehydration treatment.

ANSES’s review focused specifically on glyoxylic acid, but it did not single out particular brands. Instead, the agency urged manufacturers to reassess the safety of their products and ensure that appropriate precautions are in place to protect consumers. Glyoxylic acid is also found in various cleaning and tanning products, where it serves to inhibit corrosion.

Following ANSES’s recommendations, the European Commission will consult its Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) to determine if regulatory action is necessary under European cosmetics regulations. To date, glyoxylic acid has not been evaluated at the EU level, and its use remains unregulated.

In light of these findings, consumers and professionals in the beauty industry should exercise caution when choosing hair straightening products. While further studies are underway, it may be wise to opt for alternative treatments that do not pose such significant health risks.

From a reader’s perspective, this news underscores the importance of staying informed about the ingredients in personal care products. It highlights the need for rigorous testing and transparent labeling to ensure consumer safety. As more information becomes available, it is crucial for both manufacturers and regulators to prioritize public health over profit margins.