A Food Critic Walks Into a Fasting Spa

Sep 30, 2024 at 10:00 AM

Wellness Wonders: Exploring the Epicenter of Health Hype in Southern California

In the heart of Southern California, a unique culinary and wellness landscape has emerged, captivating the attention of health-conscious consumers and sparking a cultural revolution. From the supplement-infused smoothies of Erewhon to the fasting retreats of We Care Spa, this region has become a testing ground for the latest trends in holistic living, challenging traditional notions of health and wellness.

Uncovering the Wellness Wonderland of Southern California

Erewhon: The Epicenter of Health Hype

Erewhon, a chain of upscale grocery stores, has become a symbol of the wellness movement in Southern California. What started as a humble health-food stall in Boston has evolved into a slick, high-end behemoth, catering to the health-conscious elite. The store's "tonic bar" is a showcase for the latest trends, offering a dizzying array of supplement-laden smoothies that double as billboards for influencers and self-proclaimed health experts.The aisles of Erewhon reflect the cultural zeitgeist, with shoppers navigating a maze of dietary ideologies. From the plant-based devotees to the proponents of animal-based diets, the store caters to a diverse range of health philosophies. The dairy aisle alone is a microcosm of this divide, with "milked" cashews and raw cow and goat milk vying for attention.

The Roots of Southern California's Wellness Obsession

The region's fascination with health and wellness can be traced back to the late 19th century, when tuberculosis was a leading cause of death in the United States. Southern California's mild climate, undeveloped landscape, and sense of freedom attracted both the ill and those seeking to heal them, setting the stage for the widespread practice of unorthodox medicine and the growth of fringe movements.This cultural development was further fueled by the region's agricultural economy. As refrigerated railway cars began shipping California's produce farther afield, the notion of "health food" emerged as a form of marketing, with local cookbooks and publications promoting the curative properties of native ingredients and natural foods.

The Rise of Hype Diets and the Commodification of Wellness

The advent of the movie industry in Los Angeles only amplified the city's appetite for hype diets, as actors sought to maintain a youthful vitality and fans clamored to know their dietary secrets. The counterculture of the 1960s also embodied ideas of health, as satirized in the "alfalfa sprouts and a mashed yeast" scene from "Annie Hall."In the following decade, the focus on self-improvement expanded beyond physical health, laying the groundwork for what the author James Riley calls the "commodified approach to wellness." This paved the way for the emergence of Erewhon and the proliferation of wellness-focused businesses in Southern California.

Fasting Retreats: The Ultimate Wellness Escape

Looming over the myriad dietary possibilities in Los Angeles is the option of not eating at all. Fasting retreats, such as the nearly 40-year-old We Care Spa, have become a popular destination for those seeking a respite from the constant demands of modern life.At We Care Spa, guests embark on a journey of liquid nutrition, consuming a rigorous daily schedule of drinks and supplements, all while abstaining from solid food. The experience is designed to provide a "break from constantly digesting," offering a sense of bodily transcendence and inner peace.The spa's founder, Susana Belen, discovered the transformative power of fasting as a young single mother, and her "pure intention to spread the word" has led to the expansion of the facility in recent years. Guests, often thin white women seeking weight loss or inner healing, immerse themselves in a world where time seems to stand still, and the focus is on cleansing and rejuvenation.

The Allure of Wellness in Southern California

The appeal of wellness in Southern California extends beyond the physical, tapping into a deeper sense of identity and belonging. As one guest at We Care Spa observed, the region's residents are drawn to wellness because they see themselves as "light-years ahead of everyone else, because we follow our intuition" and possess a "higher intellect."This sense of exceptionalism, coupled with the region's history as a testing ground for alternative medicine and fringe movements, has solidified Southern California's status as the epicenter of hype diets and wellness trends. From the supplement-spiked smoothies of Erewhon to the fasting retreats of We Care Spa, the pursuit of health and wellness has become a cultural obsession, reflecting the unique character and aspirations of this dynamic and ever-evolving region.