Sappe: Isan Fare Shines in the West Village

When Soothr, a Thai restaurant focused on the soups and noodles of Sukhothai, opened in the East Village in 2021, it marked a departure from the growing popularity of Isan Thai cuisine. However, its successor, Sappe, has taken the spotlight, offering a vibrant and diverse menu that delves deep into the flavors of Isan.

Discover the Vibrant Flavors of Isan at Sappe

A Departure from the Norm

Soothr, the predecessor to Sappe, concentrated on the more familiar Thai dishes from Central Thailand, including soups and noodles. However, the opening of Sappe in the West Village has signaled a shift towards the bold and fiery flavors of Isan cuisine. Isan, a region in northeastern Thailand, is known for its distinctive dishes, such as spicy papaya salads, grilled meats, and fermented fish dishes.Sappe, owned by the same team as Soothr, has embraced this regional cuisine, offering a menu that showcases the diversity and complexity of Isan fare. The restaurant's exterior, adorned with bright red lettering and yellow wrought-iron gates, immediately sets the tone for the dining experience within.

A Vibrant and Dramatic Dining Room

Step inside Sappe, and you'll be greeted by a noisy, lively dining room that exudes a sense of energy and excitement. The space is accented by back-lit pastel panels, a portrait of James Dean, a mirrored ceiling, and dramatic lighting, creating an atmosphere that is both visually striking and inviting.The bar, which runs along one side of the room, serves up a selection of colorful cocktails that are heavy on the booze, adding to the convivial atmosphere. Behind a curtained window, the kitchen is a hive of activity, with chef Veeladath Tongkhamplew and his team of assistants working tirelessly to prepare the diverse array of dishes on the menu.

Exploring the Isan-Inspired Menu

Sappe's menu is a deep dive into the flavors of Isan, offering a wide range of skewers, fried and grilled items, hot pots, salads, rice, noodles, and entrees. The touted skewers, served four for $20, function more as drinking snacks than as a full meal. Standouts include the chicken skin, chicken wing, and beef liver, while the pork intestines and beef tongue wrapped around a scallion may be a bit too tough for some.However, the skewers are just a small part of the menu, and the real standouts are the dishes that delve deeper into Isan cuisine. One such dish is the laab ped udon ($23), a fiery duck salad featuring minced duck and duck skin in a dressing of shallots, lime juice, cilantro, and crunchy rice powder. The raw vegetables served on the side provide a cooling contrast to the heat of the dish.Another intriguing offering is the sok lek kua ($23), a finely ground beef dish seasoned with beef blood, dotted with tidbits of tripe and liver. While the blood provides richness, saltiness, and deep color, it doesn't taste overpowering, making for a unique and satisfying dish.

Navigating the Heat and Exploring the Menu

Sappe's menu is not for the faint of heart, as many of the dishes are marked with an asterisk, indicating they are "hot as hell." However, diners can request a milder version of these fiery offerings, allowing them to enjoy the bold flavors without overwhelming their palates.For those seeking a respite from the heat but not the meat, the signature Sappe ribs ($40) are a must-try. These sticky, meaty, and peanutty ribs are a mild yet satisfying option. Another standout is the kaw moo yang, a fanned assortment of grilled pork jowl served with a tangy nam jim jaew sauce.The noodle dishes at Sappe are also worth exploring, with the cha mama koong ($23) being a particular highlight. This dish features wavy egg noodles tossed with shrimp and fingerroot, a tapered root that imparts a mild ginger flavor. The addition of fish roe adds a delightful textural and flavor contrast.

Cocktails that Complement the Cuisine

Sappe's cocktail menu is as vibrant and dramatic as the dining room itself. The maximalist cocktails are named after Thai theater characters, with the Miss Dolly ($18) being a standout. This over-the-top concoction features a blend of brandy, cloves, nutmeg, blood orange cordial, charcoal, yuzu, vanilla, and bitters, creating a sweet and complex drink that helps to balance the heat of the food.Another attention-grabbing cocktail is the Boonrod, which pulls out all the stops when it comes to alcohol, featuring a blend of vodka, rum, gin, tequila, and blue curacao, flavored with pineapple and lime. While it may seem like an unlikely combination, the Boonrod is a surprisingly drinkable and enjoyable cocktail that complements the bold flavors of the Isan-inspired dishes.