Amidst economic pressures and a collective awakening to environmental issues, preloved fashion is experiencing an unprecedented surge. No longer a niche market, it is poised to claim a significant share of global retail sales. The allure of vintage and previously owned garments has even prompted online marketplaces like eBay to eliminate fees for sellers of such items, further fueling the trend's growth.
Our 'Second Nature' series peels back the layers of this burgeoning phenomenon, introducing the trailblazers who are championing preloved fashion. Far from its once-stigmatized image, today's secondhand market is synonymous with style, self-expression, and enjoyment.
Aja Barber, a writer, stylist, and consultant, has emerged as a prominent advocate for sustainable fashion. Her insights delve into the intersections of privilege, social inequality, and the potential for fashion to be reimagined through a more conscious lens. Hailing from the United States and now residing in London, Barber's voice is a clarion call for collective change in the industry.
Her literary contribution, 'Consumed: The Need for Collective Change,' encapsulates her vision for a fashion industry that is mindful of its impact on society and the environment.
Barber's personal journey with secondhand fashion is a testament to patience and perseverance. She recounts her quest for a particular coat from a high-end designer, a pursuit that spanned years but ultimately led to a triumphant find on a secondhand platform. This garment, with its mesmerizing pattern and vibrant hues, epitomizes the unique charm of preloved pieces.
Once a guarded secret, Barber now openly celebrates her secondhand treasures. She emphasizes the financial and emotional satisfaction derived from her curated collection, which stands in stark contrast to the fleeting allure of fast fashion.
Barber's wardrobe is a curated reflection of her ethical values, featuring secondhand gems styled alongside garments from independent, ethical brands. She highlights a custom-made dress, crafted from repurposed fabric, as an example of the meaningful partnerships that define her approach to fashion.
Moreover, Barber's choice to support designers from the global south is a deliberate effort to rebalance the scales of power within the fashion industry, acknowledging the regions where much of the world's clothing is produced.
Through her influential platforms on Instagram and Patreon, Barber encourages her followers to consider the impact of their fashion choices on the most vulnerable in the supply chain. She critiques the culture of consumerism for its role in distracting from deeper systemic issues and advocates for a more thoughtful approach to wardrobe building.
Barber's own epiphany occurred amidst the consumerist backdrop of a shopping mall, leading her to a more mindful and restrained approach to secondhand shopping. She stresses the importance of a holistic shift in mindset, rather than simply substituting fast fashion with an equally disposable approach to preloved clothing.
Barber's sparing approach to secondhand shopping is part of a broader strategy to counteract the fast fashion industry. She posits that the beauty and quality of her carefully chosen garments negate the need for constant consumption, and she advocates for a circular approach to fashion, where items are reintegrated into the ecosystem when no longer needed.
This philosophy extends beyond personal choice, as Barber envisions a future where the collective rejection of fast fashion leads to a more sustainable and equitable industry.
For Barber, the joy and creativity found in secondhand and ethical fashion serve as an entry point to broader environmental and social activism. She believes that transforming our relationship with clothing can be an enjoyable and impactful way to engage with critical issues facing our planet.
Barber's journey illustrates how a passion for fashion can evolve into a commitment to practices like composting and advocacy, demonstrating that small personal changes can lead to significant societal shifts.