Robin Givhan's insightful work, “Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture With Virgil Abloh,” transcends mere biography to offer a profound examination of success within the realms of fashion and wider culture, positioning Virgil Abloh as a central figure in this exploration. Abloh, a Chicago native, rose to prominence as a multifaceted creative, eventually making history as Louis Vuitton's first Black creative director. Givhan, a distinguished Pulitzer Prize-winning critic, meticulously portrays Abloh's relentless drive and his conviction in limitless possibilities. Abloh, who tragically passed away at 41 from a rare form of cancer, famously disliked confining concepts, articulating his brand “Off-White” as a personal gauge for embracing ambiguity, asserting the validity of multiple perspectives, and finding strength in the ambiguous. Born in Rockford, Illinois, to Ghanaian immigrants, Abloh's early life, marked by a passion for skateboarding and music, led him through civil engineering and architecture studies, where his interest in the convergence of fashion, culture, and music ignited. He cultivated his creativity through DJing, T-shirt design, and blogging, forging a significant bond with Kanye West and a cohort of budding creatives, whom he affectionately termed “tourists” for their genuine curiosity, distinguishing them from the purists who often dominated the scene.

Givhan’s compelling narrative masterfully interweaves Abloh’s personal journey with broader historical contexts, enriching our understanding of his impact. She explores Chicago's complex history, a city grappling with segregation yet celebrated for its architectural innovations, providing a backdrop against which Abloh's ascent can be fully appreciated. The book also sheds light on the pioneering Black male figures in fashion, such as Edward Buchanan and Ozwald Boateng, whose incremental breakthroughs paved the way for Abloh’s more expansive entry into luxury fashion. Furthermore, Givhan examines the transformative influence of sneaker culture on race and the burgeoning menswear industry, largely propelled by Black athletes who, in the 2010s, fearlessly expressed their individuality. Abloh's unorthodox path saw him accumulate various labels—architect, assistant, DJ, connector, blogger, intern, and marketing savant. Despite his reluctance to self-identify as a designer, he possessed an innate understanding of fashion, famously viewing T-shirts as art and teenagers as his most vital audience. His philosophy was rooted in continuous motion, embracing imperfections and valuing progress over perfection. Givhan encapsulates this ethos: “This sentiment is practically heresy in fashion. Designers are known to fret over the details. Style revolutions have been premised on centimeter shifts in silhouettes. Fashion shows have run hours late just so a seamstress could finish a garment to a designer’s exacting specifications. For the architecture student who never intended to construct buildings, everything was a proposition, an idea that could absorb criticism, a notion that could be improved upon in its next iteration.” Abloh championed constant dialogue and brainstorming, often through WhatsApp, and innovated with his “3% rule,” asserting that minimal alteration could yield entirely new creations. This principle underpinned Pyrex Vision and later Off-White, a brand that defied traditional fashion norms. His crucial partnership with Nike, producing customizable, collectible sneakers, and his eventual rise within LVMH, underscored his distinctive design language, notable for its ironic use of quotation marks, where the message often overshadowed aesthetics. Abloh’s designs opened doors for a new generation, particularly brilliant Black men, empowering them to pursue their creative aspirations despite societal obstacles. Givhan observes, “Abloh placed young Black men in the center of the American story… It was a blend of high and low: a statement about the added value of Blackness and a merging of past and present, a convergence that would point fashion toward its future.”

In a world where younger generations might seek creative solace in digital spaces, Abloh advocated for exploration and curiosity, considering these “in-between” individuals—on the cusp of adulthood—as his primary inspiration and audience. This deep connection, as Givhan eloquently reveals, was Abloh's greatest contribution: he empowered others, fostered possibility, and delivered not just products, but aspirations. “Make It Ours” powerfully illustrates the transformative power of Abloh's personal brand, depicting him as a self-made icon whose success was built on self-assurance and intuition, honed by a willingness to listen and learn. Givhan’s depiction of Abloh culminates with his groundbreaking Louis Vuitton debut in 2018, poignantly illustrating his journey to “Oz” with his mother, mirroring the Wizard of Oz theme of his collection. This narrative arrives at a crucial time, reminding us of the enduring value of confidence, patience, and open-mindedness. It underscores the importance of investing in human potential and finding inspiration in every facet of life, however challenging it may seem amidst the noise of modern existence. His inaugural collection, while not flawless, defied the need for perfection. He extended invitations to hundreds of fashion students, providing them with vibrant T-shirts emblazoned with “Not Home”—a symbolic tribute to Dorothy’s unexpected journey into an extraordinary, unfamiliar world. This act served as a powerful visual testament to Abloh’s immense influence, a legacy meticulously honored and celebrated in Givhan's compelling work.