Valentino Garavani, revered as "The Last Emperor," recently concluded his illustrious journey at the age of 93, leaving an indelible imprint on the realm of high fashion. He was a sentinel of a bygone era, where sartorial elegance was paramount, and grand presentations captivated audiences long before the advent of digital trends. Garavani often expressed his disapproval of the modern minimalist aesthetic, recalling a time when women's daily attire involved multiple changes and a deliberate embrace of sophisticated dressing.
From his early fascination with the opulent costumes of the film Ziegfeld Follies, Garavani's path led him to establish his eponymous fashion house in Rome in 1960, after honing his craft with legendary designers like Balenciaga and Dior. His signature style masterfully blended refined elegance with a bohemian spirit, captivating figures such as Marisa Berenson and Talitha Getty. These muses, balancing high society with free-spirited charm, found themselves adorned in his vibrant caftans and peasant-inspired garments. Even Jackie Kennedy, known for her classic style, embraced his ruffled maroon dress, showcasing a less conventional, artistic side.
Valentino Garavani's influence stretched beyond the runway, shaping cultural moments and defining a distinctive aesthetic. His iconic "Valentino red," inspired by a theatrical performance of Carmen, became a global symbol of passion and power. Furthermore, his innovative bridal minidress, famously worn by Jacqueline Kennedy at her wedding to Aristotle Onassis, ignited a trend that resonated with a generation. Unlike many of his 1960s peers who embraced futuristic, streamlined designs, Garavani consistently championed maximalism and overt femininity. Long before "coquettecore" became a social media phenomenon, he adorned his creations with playful ruffles, delicate bows, and charming polka dots, elements that continue to inspire the house's current creative director, Alessandro Michele.
Garavani possessed an innate understanding of Hollywood glamour, dressing a constellation of stars from Elizabeth Taylor to Zendaya, ensuring his designs graced the most significant moments in celebrity lives. Tributes from luminaries like Sarah Jessica Parker underscored his profound impact, acknowledging the enduring beauty and sophistication he bestowed upon the world. His life mirrored the grandeur of his creations; as described by John Fairchild, he and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti epitomized high living, with homes in glamorous locales and a constant entourage of celebrated friends and his beloved pugs. The documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor chronicled the culminating phase of his career, commemorating his 45th anniversary in fashion. His final haute couture collection in 2008 served as a majestic retrospective, featuring an array of bold florals, feminine details, pristine ivories, elegant picture hats, and a breathtaking finale of models all adorned in his signature red. These were not garments for the timid, but rather for women who, as he once articulated to ELLE, sought to radiate an inner glow.
