In a surprising turn of events, a niche yet expanding segment of American breweries is embracing an unusual brewing tradition from the Czech Republic. These establishments are introducing foam-heavy beer styles that challenge conventional American brewing norms. The unique pouring techniques and the resulting texture have started to pique interest among beer enthusiasts, offering a fresh perspective on traditional lagers.

A New Chapter in American Brewing

In the heart of Bushwick, Brooklyn, Niteglow Beer Company offers patrons a taste of something unconventional: a "milk pour." This dark lager, brewed with locally sourced grains, appears initially as if it's gone awry due to its abundant foam. However, this isn't a mistake but rather a deliberate style known as mlíko, originating from the Czech Republic. Here, lagers are intentionally dispensed with several inches of foam, sometimes filling the entire glass.

Jonathan Ifergan, one of Niteglow's owners, explains that this technique adds a textural dimension unfamiliar to many Americans. Traditionally, beer foam has been frowned upon in the U.S., often associated with less desirable drinking experiences. Yet, this perception is slowly changing. Brewers like Eric Larkin from Cohesion Brewing Company in Denver have found inspiration in Czech brewing traditions during travels abroad. Larkin notes that people are seeking differentiation, and Czech lagers offer a unique opportunity to stand out in a crowded market.

The trend extends beyond Brooklyn. Specialty taps for foam-forward beers can now be found at places like Novare Res Bier Cafe in Portland, Maine, Little Lager in St. Louis, and Notch Brewing in Salem and Brighton, Massachusetts, which were early adopters of this style.

From a journalist’s perspective, this shift in brewing culture reflects a broader trend toward embracing global traditions and rethinking established norms. It challenges brewers and consumers alike to explore new dimensions of flavor and texture, potentially opening doors to further innovation in the craft beer industry. This embrace of foam-heavy beers not only diversifies the American brewing landscape but also fosters a deeper appreciation for centuries-old techniques.