In a significant move for the creative world, renowned designer Edward Buchanan has established 'The Situation,' a pioneering foundation in Milan dedicated to nurturing and empowering creative professionals from underrepresented communities. This initiative, entirely self-funded by Buchanan, seeks to dismantle systemic barriers faced by people of color, LGBTQ+ individuals, and women in fields spanning fashion, art, and culinary arts. With a substantial personal investment, Buchanan is creating a vibrant hub that offers both physical space and invaluable industry guidance to help these talents forge independent and successful careers.
Buchanan, a native of Ohio, recounts how crucial Black industry mentors were in shaping his own journey. While completing his education at New York's Parsons School of Design, figures like Gordon Henderson facilitated interviews at prominent fashion houses, and Rodney Patterson's insider tip led him to Bottega Veneta, where he made history as the brand's inaugural ready-to-wear design director. Reflecting on over three decades in the industry, Buchanan, a celebrated creative director and knitwear specialist, was driven to establish 'The Situation' to extend this legacy of support to future generations. He emphasizes that the non-profit's financial independence, free from external investment, is paramount to its mission.
Located in NoLo, a diverse and historically working-class district of Milan, 'The Situation' occupies a 400-square-meter facility. Buchanan invested €400,000 into the interior construction and materials, an amount separate from the building's acquisition cost. The ground floor houses a dynamic studio and gallery, designed to host artists, designers, and various creative talents through residency programs. This space will serve as both a workshop and a venue for exhibitions and showroom launches. Upstairs, Buchanan maintains an office for himself and his team, complete with an extensive archive of his design work, ranging from his time at Bottega Veneta (1995-2000) to his various consultancy roles.
Currently, Buchanan is assembling an esteemed board to oversee the selection process for residents. Leveraging his vast network and significant industry prestige, he plans to connect emerging talents with vital partners and resources. Buchanan also serves as the Milan fashion director for Perfect Magazine and is the knitwear designer for Pucci, reporting to creative director Camille Miceli. He founded his own knitwear brand, Sansovino 6, in 2005, and previously held the position of knitwear design director for Off-White from 2019 to 2023.
Despite his impressive resume, Buchanan has personally navigated numerous obstacles throughout his career. His aspiration for 'The Situation' is to alleviate these challenges for disadvantaged creatives currently striving to advance in the industry. Prior to the non-profit's official launch, Buchanan shared insights into the project, his personal journey, and the contemporary landscape for creatives of color during a conversation with Vogue during a break in Milan Fashion Week.
The concept for 'The Situation' began to take shape five years ago. After closing his office due to Covid and relocating his operations home, Buchanan began searching for a new workspace. He serendipitously discovered the current location while en route to a furniture store, immediately drawn to its "New York" aesthetic. Initially intending it as just an office, his perspective shifted. Reflecting on nearly 35 years in the industry, he acknowledged his profound love for design and editorial work, yet also his persistent frustrations with existing systemic issues. This realization spurred him to action, determining he could no longer merely complain without actively instigating change.
Buchanan's primary goal is to establish a sanctuary that celebrates artists from marginalized communities, a group he identifies with personally. He vividly recalls the struggles of finding support and space in his early career. His vision is to uplift a diverse range of creatives—whether queer artists, Black and Brown artists, or women artists—encompassing a broad definition of "artist" that includes chefs, painters, and fashion designers.
Addressing how 'The Situation' will provide residency support and resources, Buchanan elaborated on the soft opening held on September 25th, designed to introduce the vision and atmosphere of the still largely empty space. The upper floor, affectionately named 'At Eddie's' in tribute to his mother, will house his design office and his extensive archive of work from Bottega and various consultancies. This archive, rich with knitwear research and textiles, will be accessible to residents for their own studies. He plans to form a board to select candidates for the initial residencies, ensuring that these creatives can undertake projects within the space without financial burden. Funding will be secured through collaborations with institutional partners and high-profile industry contacts. Buchanan and the board will focus on building synergies and raising capital to facilitate these projects, which could range from a three-month showroom for a designer to a six-month tenure for a ceramic artist. The ultimate goal is to identify and support creatives who genuinely need financial, mentorship, and guidance assistance, transforming 'The Situation' into a comprehensive hub for creation and presentation.
Buchanan highlighted the value partners see in collaborating on 'The Situation,' acknowledging that this was not his initial focus. His partner, Giovanni Pigliapochi, an architect by background, helped him recognize the immense value and knowledge he possesses within the creative sphere. The response from initial outreach was both humbling and exciting. Even for small needs, such as soap, premium brands like Aqua Di Parma readily offered their support. Listone Giordano, a parquet company, provided sustainable wood flooring. These partnerships underscore a shared commitment to sustainability in both construction and maintenance, with the facility featuring solar panels and interiors crafted from recycled and upcycled wood and metal.
Pigliapochi meticulously selected partners, presenting the project's vision to align with companies sharing similar principles. Wilkhahn supplied sustainable work chairs, Acqua Chiarella provides water, and Tamu offers wine, all from Italian companies (and some international) that resonate with 'The Situation's' ethos. Crucially, the foundation remains 100% self-funded, a deliberate choice by Buchanan. He emphasizes this independence as vital for demonstrating that Black and Brown communities possess the economic and holistic capacity to foster thriving businesses within the Italian landscape.
Within the Italian context, Buchanan aims to instill a strong sense of independence in Black and Brown creatives. He recounts his early privilege as a Black American with a "glossy blue passport" entering a major role at Bottega Veneta. However, as an independent designer, opportunities did not come easily, forcing him to build his career from the ground up. He notes that many young creatives still aspire to work for large companies or secure internships, yet disadvantaged communities continue to face exclusion. Buchanan, drawing on his and collaborators' deep industry knowledge, intends to equip these creatives with strategies for self-protection and building sustainable ventures that can serve as their primary livelihood. He stresses the importance of understanding independence over relying on established structures.
Buchanan’s own narrative underscores the power of mentorship, beginning with figures like Gordon Henderson, the first Black designer to win a CFDA Award. He initially didn’t fully grasp the profound impact of having a mentor who mirrored his own identity, simply recognizing Henderson as a brilliant designer dedicated to his growth. Henderson guided him to seek out superior materials and introduced him to industry giants like Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. This trust stemmed from seeing a reflection of himself in Henderson, as well as in other pioneers like Andre Walker and Byron Lars. In his early Parsons days, few Black and Brown designers graced Seventh Avenue, solidifying Buchanan’s long-held ambition to eventually provide similar opportunities. His metric for 'The Situation's' success is not financial gain or accolades, but rather witnessing creatives thrive independently, fully embracing their authentic selves. He expresses immense enthusiasm and readiness for this endeavor.
