The pre-release buzz surrounding FX's new series, 'American Love Story,' has been dominated by an unexpected controversy: its costume design. Depicting the romance between John F. Kennedy Jr. and fashion icon Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, the show has drawn sharp critiques from industry figures regarding its stylistic representations. The uproar has been so pronounced that series creator Ryan Murphy felt compelled to address the concerns publicly, emphasizing the meticulous efforts being undertaken to ensure sartorial authenticity. This intense scrutiny highlights the profound impact Bessette Kennedy's minimalist yet compelling aesthetic continues to have on popular culture and the high expectations viewers hold for such a fashion-centric historical narrative.
Initial glimpses of the show, featuring actors Sarah Pidgeon and Paul Kelly in their roles as Bessette Kennedy and JFK Jr., were met with widespread dismay across social media and within elite fashion circles. Esteemed figures such as Lauren Santo Domingo, Camille Charrière, and Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele expressed their disappointment, particularly after images surfaced, including those initially posted by @diet_prada. Many felt the garments appeared to be substandard imitations of Bessette Kennedy's renowned wardrobe. Cerf de Dudzeele, a prominent French fashion editor from the same era, encapsulated the general sentiment with her succinct critique: “Wrong!!! So bad…”
In response to the growing wave of criticism, particularly from Lauren Sherman of Puck, Ryan Murphy addressed specific points of contention. He clarified that an "understuffed Birkin" handbag seen in early promotional material was merely a prop from another production, used for a test shot, not a final piece. Furthermore, he defended the choice of Converse sneakers in certain paparazzi photos, asserting that Bessette Kennedy herself wore them in private photographs during the 1993/1994 period, before her widespread fame. Murphy asserted his confidence in the decisions, stating, \"I look at that picture, and think, Well, people are criticizing it, and they’re wrong, to be quite blunt.\"
Murphy elaborated on the production's commitment to precision, revealing that the costume department has sourced numerous exact replicas and original pieces from Bessette Kennedy’s actual closet. This includes significant items like a Yohji Yamamoto ruffled skirt from 1998, a Chanel resort 1996 floral dress, and a vintage Prada fall 1996 tan-camel blazer. He also confirmed that the correct Birkin 40, rather than the smaller Birkin 35 seen in test images, would be used. \"We’re spending a tremendous amount of time and money and effort to get her closet correct,\" Murphy affirmed, adding that an extensive advisory board is also involved to guide the process.
The intense public and industry reaction to the show’s costumes underscores the significant cultural imprint left by Carolyn Bessette Kennedy. Murphy himself admitted to being somewhat naive regarding the depth of public devotion to her style, acknowledging that Bessette Kennedy holds a "religious figure" status in fashion circles. This level of scrutiny, reminiscent of the media's relentless focus on figures like Princess Diana, highlights the perceived impeccability of Bessette Kennedy's public image, and the immense challenge of faithfully recreating it on screen.
This ongoing discussion prompts a broader reflection on why audiences invest so deeply in the stylistic accuracy of biographical portrayals. As Murphy questioned Sherman, \"You said that you felt troubled by the photograph. Why would you feel so bothered by that?\" Sherman responded by noting Hollywood's frequent misrepresentation of the fashion industry. Ultimately, the profound connection stems from Bessette Kennedy’s innate, authentic style—a quality that made her a true icon. The task of replicating such an inherent sense of fashion is indeed daunting, and the stakes, as evidenced by the passionate reactions, are exceptionally high.