This vibrant and deeply personal culinary tribute captures the essence of Koreatowns across the nation. It was a groundbreaking work upon its release, offering a raw and authentic portrayal of these unique cultural hubs. Through striking visuals and narrative-driven content, the book invites readers into the daily lives and unvarnished beauty of Korean American communities, highlighting everything from bustling markets to unassuming strip malls. The recipes within skillfully balance approachability with the rich, authentic tastes of Koreatown, featuring both classic Korean American dishes, like bacon-infused kimchi fried rice, and inventive creations from diaspora chefs, such as Edward Lee's Southern-inspired cornmeal pajeon. It's a testament to the dynamic evolution of Korean food within America.
For those new to Korean dining, the array of small, savory side dishes, known as banchan, presented at a traditional meal can be a truly captivating experience. A Korean meal is simply incomplete without several banchan gracing the table. Fortunately, many of these delectable sides are surprisingly straightforward to prepare, especially with Caroline Choe's engaging and visually appealing cookbook as your guide. This charming collection introduces various categories of banchan, including fermented foods, preserved items, fresh vegetable preparations, soups, and savory pancakes. Choe's American upbringing, as the child of Korean immigrants, infuses her recipes with delightful twists, like fresh strawberry kimchi and spring greens namul quiche. While some meat and seafood options are included, the book predominantly showcases vegetable-centric dishes, making it an excellent resource for those seeking to incorporate more plant-based foods into their diet.
While my roots aren't in Atlanta, Eric Kim's evocative recipes and poignant prose somehow stir a sense of longing for that city, perhaps because despite the distinct variations among Korean American families and their culinary traditions, certain dishes universally evoke a feeling of "home." Think of the comforting familiarity of griddled Spam or the satisfying crunch of donkkaseu (breaded fried pork cutlets). Kim's debut is a deeply intimate work, part cookbook, part memoir, and a heartfelt tribute to his mother, Jean. It chronicles a complex yet ultimately triumphant journey of self-discovery, made possible through Kim's exploration of where and how one finds a sense of belonging. His recipes align perfectly with my own culinary preferences, featuring creations like pan-seared rib eye with gochujang butter or creamy bucatini with gim (roasted seasoned seaweed). This is the ideal book for anyone who cherishes cookbooks as much as they do novels.
Should a friend inquire about the quintessential cookbook for an introduction to modern Korean food, I would unhesitatingly recommend this timeless masterpiece. It is a meticulously crafted work of understated elegance, from its bold yet minimalist design to its stunning photography. (Indeed, I was so enamored with this book that I enlisted its photographer, Kristin Teig, for my own upcoming culinary publication.) The recipes offer a thoughtfully curated selection of Korea's most renowned dishes, spanning from yangnyeom-gejang (spicy marinated raw blue crab) to dolsot bibimbap (sizzling hot stone mixed rice) and doenjang jjigae (fermented soybean stew). As expected from a Michelin-starred chef, the book also includes more ambitious preparations, such as succulent pork and shrimp "dumplings" encased in perilla leaves instead of traditional dough, delicately battered and fried. Furthermore, it features an exceptionally comprehensive guide to sourcing Korean ingredients.
Despite the unfortunate closure of Monica Lee's beloved Los Angeles establishment, Beverly Soon Tofu, in September 2020, culinary enthusiasts are fortunate to have her detailed guide, "Sohn-mat." This title, meaning "taste of the hands" in Korean, aptly describes the innate culinary intuition it seeks to impart. Lee's book serves as a meticulous blueprint for replicating her renowned soon tofu chigae, or soft tofu stew. A significant portion of the book is dedicated to an in-depth exploration of every component of her celebrated chigaes, offering comprehensive information and advice on selecting the right ingredients and the essential Korean earthenware vessels, ttukbaegi. It also includes recipes for various broths, a spicy seasoning paste, and the chigaes themselves. The remainder of the volume focuses on complementary dishes, such as diverse banchan, kimchi, appetizers, communal platters, and a variety of stews and soups, all designed to be enjoyed alongside your soon tofu chigae and a steaming bowl of rice.
It's remarkable that a dedicated volume to jangs, the cornerstone fermented soybean products that impart Korean food with its distinctive essence, has only recently emerged. For those familiar with Korean cuisine, jangs are recognizable from dishes like bibimbap or through the ubiquitous gochujang, the increasingly popular sweet fermented red pepper paste found in everything from glazed fried chicken to cookies. This book, authored by a distinguished chef from a Michelin-starred Seoul restaurant, masterfully bridges the gap between tradition and modernity. It delves deeply into the rich history of jangs within Korean culinary culture, accompanied by breathtaking photographs depicting traditional Korean artisans in the meticulous process of jang-making. Divided into three key sections—ganjang (Korean soy sauce), doenjang (fermented soybean paste), and gochujang (fermented red pepper paste)—the book presents a blend of traditional Korean recipes alongside innovative applications, demonstrating how jangs can seamlessly integrate into a global pantry. Imagine tagliatelle with ganjang ragù or Greek salad with doenjang vinaigrette. While perhaps not the ideal starting point for absolute novices to Korean cuisine, this book is a treasure for adventurous food lovers who delight in exploring specialty ingredients and crafting delectable creations.
Phaidon's single-subject cookbooks, dedicated to the world's major cuisines, are undoubtedly visually stunning additions to any coffee table. Yet, time and again, I am consistently impressed by the invaluable depth of information these volumes contain, a richness rarely found in other English-language culinary texts. Spanning 496 pages, "The Korean Cookbook" is an imposing yet meticulously researched compendium. It meticulously covers Korea's history, geography, culinary evolution, indigenous ingredients, and much more, alongside an astounding 350 recipes, many of which I had never encountered in any other English publication. The chef-authors emphatically underscore the crucial role of vegetables and fermented and preserved foods in the development of hansik (Korean cuisine). Consequently, the recipes prominently feature the vast and varied Korean preparations of vegetables, kimchi, and preserved pickles. While designed for the home cook, some recipes, such as the one for 26 pounds of doenjang, are perhaps more aspirational than practical for daily use. Nevertheless, many can be easily prepared after a quick visit to a Korean supermarket. Other dishes might pose a greater challenge for those without access to Korea's specific native vegetables and animal proteins, though they remain fascinating to explore through reading.
Much like the wider online community, I regard the immensely popular YouTuber Maangchi (also known as Emily Kim) as a definitive authority on Korean cooking (despite having a Korean mother myself). It's impossible not to be charmed by her delightful demeanor, her flamboyant attire, and her incredibly delicious food. "Maangchi's Real Korean Cooking," her inaugural cookbook published in 2015, reads like a compilation of the greatest hits from her website, featuring beloved recipes such as bulgogi, seafood-scallion pancake (haemul-pajeon), and sticky-sweet Korean fried chicken (yangnyeom-tongdak). Maangchi excels at translating the authentic flavors of her youth in Korea to an American and global audience, making this book both comprehensive and highly approachable. She provides particularly excellent explanations of the essential Korean pantry, making this book an indispensable guide for anyone embarking on a shopping trip to a Korean grocery store.
Chef Peter Serpico's recipes are profoundly shaped by his personal journey as a South Korean-born transracial adoptee who grew up in Laurel, Maryland. The recipes within this concise yet impactful book are distinctly unconventional, clearly reflecting Serpico's unique perspective as an individual who began connecting with his Korean heritage through the kitchen much later in life. He has thoughtfully crafted dishes that are accessible to home cooks of all skill levels, including those who may not have ready access to a Korean grocery or specialty store. While you wouldn't typically find recipes for curly parsley kimchi or pickled iceberg lettuce in a strictly traditional Korean cookbook, these innovative creations are precisely what makes Serpico's work so compelling. I particularly appreciate that, despite his acclaimed fine dining background, many of his recipes are streamlined and remarkably achievable, even for busy weeknights.
Korean-born, London-based author Su Scott's second culinary publication delves into the vibrant street food scene of Seoul, a book she says she longed to write even before her quietly elegant debut, "Rice Table." The term "pocha" serves as a shorthand for "pojangmacha," referring to the numerous street stalls and carts that offer affordable and comforting snacks and beverages across South Korea. The book's ingeniously structured chapters guide you through a full day of feasting: begin with pine nut porridge with oatmeal (jat juk) in the "All Day Dining" section, enjoy a smoked salmon bibimbap for "Market Lunch," grab a salted Nutella pancake for an energizing "4PM Slump," and conclude with anju (drinking snacks) accompanied by abundant soju in "Feasting Under the Stars." Scott's writing is truly poetic. Her depiction of Seoul, enhanced by captivating photography, is deeply alluring, dynamic, alive, and steeped in history. You can't help but feel compelled to follow her through the city's thoroughfares, rapturously indulging in 24 hours of delicious experiences in her beloved hometown.