In late November, as winter gently touched the southern province of Guangdong, a group of tea enthusiasts embarked on an unforgettable journey to Chaozhou. Nestled among mist-covered mountains, this region is renowned for its unique oolong varieties, particularly the Dancong tea. Our host, Huang Huan, president of Jiaming Tea Manufacturing Company, shared insights into his organic farming practices and the rich heritage of Chaozhou's tea culture. The visit revealed not only the complexities of tea production but also the dedication of a young leader committed to sustainability and quality.

A Glimpse into Chaozhou's Tea Culture

In the heart of autumn, when the air carries a hint of coolness, our small group arrived in Chaozhou. The Phoenix Mountains, located about 450 kilometers east of Guangzhou, welcomed us with their lush greenery and misty peaks. Despite the drizzle, which added an element of uncertainty to the planned tea leaf picking, Huang Huan remained optimistic. He had arranged for a special batch of winter-harvested leaves from a neighboring estate, ensuring we could witness the intricate process of oolong tea production firsthand.

Huang’s estate, surrounded by three mountains, stands out as a pioneering organic farm. Spanning nearly 33 acres, it is meticulously maintained without the use of chemicals, herbicides, or pesticides. Instead, chickens roam freely, controlling pests while providing natural fertilization. This commitment to organic practices has earned Jiaming Tea recognition at local, national, and international levels, solidifying its place among Chaozhou’s most beautiful estates.

The tour included visits to the Chaozhou Fenghuang Dancong Tea Museum, where we admired the historic Song Zhong mother tree, believed to date back to the Song Dynasty. We also enjoyed several rounds of Dancong tea in the museum’s modern teahouse, each sip revealing the complexity and diversity of flavors that make this tea so beloved.

Meet the Visionary Behind the Estate

Huang Huan, a 33-year-old pioneer, grew up surrounded by tea. His father, once a respected journalist, introduced him to the world of tea through connections with influential figures like Huang Rui Guang, a master tea maker from Chaozhou. Inspired by this early exposure, Huang chose to leave his job at a Guangzhou TV company in 2016 to return to his hometown and transform the family’s neglected tea garden into an organic haven.

His vision was clear: to produce high-quality, organic tea that would set an example for the industry. Huang invested CNY30 million (USD$4 million) in the initial setup, facing financial challenges but remaining steadfast in his mission. The estate now thrives, producing 2000 kilograms of Dancong oolong annually from a single spring harvest. Although the lack of fertilizer limits winter production, Huang’s focus remains on maintaining the highest standards of quality.

A Legacy of Dedication and Passion

As we sat in the central pavilion, enjoying the delicate spiciness of Huang’s premium tea, brewed by his wife Yao Yao, I couldn’t help but reflect on the significance of his efforts. Huang’s commitment to organic farming and sustainable practices serves as a beacon for the future of tea production. His story reminds us that true innovation often lies in returning to traditional methods and embracing the land’s natural rhythms.

In a world increasingly focused on mass production, Huang’s approach offers a refreshing alternative. By prioritizing quality over quantity, he not only preserves the essence of Chaozhou’s tea culture but also paves the way for a more environmentally conscious industry. As Huang proudly proclaimed, “I am a master,” his words echoed the passion and dedication that define his life’s work.