Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's opulent Rue Cambon apartment stands as a remarkable testament to her refined taste and artistic sensibilities. This Paris address not only houses the haute couture atelier of her namesake maison but also features eight lacquered Coromandel screens, those richly decorated folding partitions with origins in China. These screens held a special fascination for the couturier, as she is said to have owned a total of 32, using them as lavish wall decorations or to conceal doorways when seeking privacy. "I nearly fainted with joy when, entering a Chinese shop, I saw a Coromandel for the first time," she once expressed upon her opening encounter with this decorative object at the age of 18.

The Largest Screen in the Rue Cambon Apartment

The largest screen in the Rue Cambon apartment showcases a captivating depiction of West Lake. Situated in Hangzhou, the capital of China's historic Zhejiang province, this freshwater lake once lay within the ancient city's walls. Its serene waters are adorned with manmade islands and causeways, along with numerous decorative pagodas and temples along the shoreline. West Lake has long been a subject of mythic tales and poetic musings, and it was even used by Marco Polo as a symbol of China when he brought it back to the West in the 13th century. In 2011, West Lake was designated a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO.The detailed imagery on this screen transports viewers to a world of tranquility and beauty, reflecting Chanel's appreciation for the cultural and artistic heritage of China.

Coromandel Screens in Chanel's World

Coromandel screens played a significant role in Chanel's aesthetic. They were not just decorative elements but also a part of her creative vision. The couturier would incorporate them into her designs, using them to add a touch of exoticism and elegance. These screens became an integral part of her atelier, enhancing the overall atmosphere and setting the stage for her couture creations.They represented a connection to a different culture and a source of inspiration for Chanel. Her love for these screens was evident in the various ways she used them, from using them as room dividers to incorporating their patterns into her clothing designs.

The Métiers d'Art Show at West Lake

Earlier today, West Lake became the location of Chanel's latest Métiers d'Art show. This annual event celebrates the diverse and highly specific craftspeople and organizations that contribute to the house's collections. From feather workers and embroiderers to milliners and goldsmiths, each craft is showcased in its finest form.The location was teased with a Wim Wenders-directed film released earlier this week, which featured longtime house muse Tilda Swinton traveling from the Rue Cambon apartment to West Lake and cruising its famed waters in a traditional decorative boat. The film also stars fellow house ambassadors Xin Zhilei and Leah Dou.The show took place at the onset of evening, with a series of wooden runways hovering just above the lake's surface, creating the illusion of walking on water. The collection had a decidedly nighttime mood, with sweeping midnight black overcoats opening the show, followed by lavishly decorated tweed jackets and a series of garments in gilded gold. Some jackets were cropped to reveal patterned bodysuits beneath, while skirts ranged from abbreviated and kilt-like to longer and fuller. A more casual mood emerged in bermuda shorts, denim skirts, and a gently padded set reminiscent of nightwear.

The Poetry of Craft and Embellishment

As with all of Chanel's Métiers d'Art collections, the true poetry of these pieces lay in the extraordinary expressions of craft and embellishment. There were camelia motifs embroidered by Lesage, as Coco Chanel's love for the flower was purportedly inspired by their use in Chinese artworks. Intricate pleats and piping added to the visual appeal, along with fantastical panels of sequins and crystals.In a statement, Chanel praised the "savoir-faire" of its various Métiers d'Art, highlighting the dynamics of its layering and the romanticism of its refinement. These details transformed each garment into a work of art, showcasing the skill and creativity of the Chanel craftspeople.

The Studio Team's Design

The collection was designed by the house's studio team following the departure of former creative director Virginie Viard last June. Rumors of her replacement continue to swirl, and the news is reportedly imminent. However, on this evening in Hangzhou, it was the Chanel craftspeople who took center stage. These magicians behind the curtain brought the designs to life with their exceptional skills and attention to detail.Each piece was a testament to their craftsmanship, from the intricate embroidery to the delicate embellishments. They breathed life into Chanel's vision, creating a collection that was both timeless and modern.