Growing up in Michigan, food writer Khushbu Shah's Diwali celebrations were a vibrant tapestry of parties, flickering diyas, marigold flowers, and an abundance of mouthwatering delicacies. As she shares her experiences with Vogue, the former Food & Wine restaurant editor paints a vivid picture of the joyous festivities that filled her childhood home, where laughter and the aroma of freshly fried pakoras were the hallmarks of this cherished annual tradition.

Unlocking the Essence of Diwali: A Culinary Journey

Diwali: The Festival of Lights

Diwali, the festival of lights, holds immense significance in Hindu culture, symbolizing the triumph of light over darkness and the victory of good over evil. Celebrated typically in October or November, this five-day festival is marked by unique customs and rituals that transform homes into radiant sanctuaries, aglow with the warm embrace of diyas and candles. Fireworks and sparklers often add to the celebratory atmosphere, as families gather to offer prayers and make offerings to deities such as Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth.

Diwali Delicacies: A Culinary Celebration

For Shah, the true essence of Diwali lies in the abundance of delectable treats that grace the festivities. With a self-proclaimed "huge sweet tooth," her favorite Diwali indulgences include the fragrant shrikhand, a thickened, sweetened yogurt infused with saffron and cardamom, as well as the irresistible pakoras, freshly fried in a savory chickpea-flour batter. "At these parties, there will always be an auntie freshly frying things," she explains, "and when the pakora's hot out of the oil, it's unlike anything else."

Adapting Traditions: Diwali in the Diaspora

While Diwali celebrations in South Asia tend to be more extravagant, with the observed national holiday spanning several days, Shah notes that the diversity of Indian American communities offers a unique perspective on the festival. She learned from family friends about the practice of annakut, or "mountain of food," where dozens of elaborate dishes are offered on an altar, a tradition that has enriched her understanding of the cultural tapestry.In the United States, Diwali celebrations may take on a more casual form, with gatherings that forgo the labor-intensive menus ubiquitous in South Asia. "The stuff we do here is like Diwali lite," Shah says. If she can't be with her family in Michigan, she might host a potluck dinner with friends, where they might don Indian attire and color rangoli designs in a coloring book, adapting traditions to suit their American context.

Amrikan: Embracing the Indian American Diaspora

Adaptation is a crucial ingredient in diasporic culinary traditions, as Shah demonstrates in her debut cookbook, Amrikan: 125 Recipes from the Indian American Diaspora. The book features a delightful fusion of flavors, including dishes like saag paneer lasagna, pani puri mojitos, and masala chai Basque cheesecake, showcasing the creative ways in which the Indian American community has embraced and reimagined their culinary heritage.Two recipes from Amrikan that Shah recommends for your Diwali table are particularly noteworthy. The first is shrimp moilee, a saucy, rich dish made with a coconut milk base, shrimp, and spices including turmeric and curry leaves. The second is her interpretation of the traditional Indian dessert, gulab jamun, which she has adapted using an American pantry staple, Bisquick, as a "real auntie hack."Through her culinary explorations, Shah celebrates the vibrant diversity of the Indian American experience, showcasing how the fusion of traditions and flavors can create a truly unique and delectable celebration of Diwali, both in the homeland and in the diaspora.