Burberry brings back ultra low-rise trousers in utilitarian London Fashion Week collection

Sep 16, 2024 at 5:28 PM
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Burberry's Bold Embrace of Low-Rise Trousers: A Generational Shift in Fashion

In a bold move that has captured the attention of fashion enthusiasts, Burberry has embraced the resurgence of low-rise trousers, a trend championed by Gen Z. The British heritage brand's spring/summer 2025 collection, showcased at the Brutalist National Theatre building in London, has given the divisive style the high fashion seal of approval, signaling a generational shift in the industry.

Burberry Leads the Charge in Redefining Luxury Aesthetics

Embracing Utilitarian Chic

Burberry's latest collection, helmed by creative director Daniel Lee, showcased a more utilitarian edge than the brand has traditionally been known for. The base Burberry garments, such as sharply tailored jackets, trench coats, and trousers, were elevated with the addition of straps, buttons, zippers, and buckles, giving the pieces a more streetwear-inspired vibe. This shift in aesthetic reflects the evolving preferences of younger consumers, who are drawn to a more functional and versatile approach to luxury fashion.The predominantly neutral color palette of camels, creams, blacks, and greys further emphasized the utilitarian aesthetic, with some models donning belted camel coats and matching cargo trousers, evoking a sense of practicality and effortless style. The occasional pops of color, such as a flash of lilac in the footwear or a burst of yellow in a scarf, added a touch of playfulness to the collection, keeping it from feeling too austere.

Embracing the Low-Rise Trend

The standout feature of Burberry's collection was the inclusion of ultra-low-rise trousers, a style that has been gaining traction among Gen Z consumers on platforms like TikTok. By incorporating this divisive trend into their high-fashion offering, Burberry is not only acknowledging the changing preferences of younger generations but also positioning itself as a brand that is willing to push the boundaries of traditional luxury aesthetics.The low-rise trousers, which have been a controversial fashion choice for decades, have been making a comeback in recent years, with Gen Z leading the charge. Burberry's decision to feature this style in their collection signals a shift in the industry, as a traditionally conservative brand embraces a trend that has been largely associated with a younger, more experimental demographic.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation

While the collection showcased a more utilitarian and youthful aesthetic, Burberry did not abandon its heritage completely. The brand's signature trench coats and tailored pieces remained a central focus, with Daniel Lee playing around with the silhouettes and adding his own unique touches.The inclusion of floral patterns and a sparkling backless halter-neck dress that closed the show provided a touch of whimsy and femininity, balancing the more rugged and androgynous elements of the collection. This blend of traditional Burberry codes and contemporary design sensibilities demonstrates the brand's ability to evolve while still maintaining its core identity.

Accessories: A Key to Burberry's Comeback

In the face of a luxury retail slump, Burberry is placing a strong emphasis on its accessory offerings as a means of driving sales and boosting its market position. The collection featured a range of eye-catching accessories, including a large hobo-style bag that was described as "ludicrously capacious," a nod to the viral Burberry bag featured in the TV show "Succession."Additionally, the brand showcased small, sparkly bags that could rival the popularity of it-bags like Fendi's baguette style, as well as oversized, bug-like sunglasses that drew inspiration from Noughties eyewear trends. These statement pieces not only cater to the desires of younger consumers but also have the potential to become the next must-have Burberry items, contributing to the brand's comeback efforts.

A Shift in Burberry's Trajectory

Burberry's decision to embrace the low-rise trouser trend and incorporate a more utilitarian aesthetic into their collection represents a significant shift in the brand's trajectory. As the company was recently kicked off the FTSE 100 index, this collection could be a crucial step in regaining its footing in the luxury market.By tapping into the preferences of Gen Z and offering a more wearable and versatile collection, Burberry is positioning itself to appeal to a broader range of consumers. The brand's ability to balance its heritage with contemporary design elements, while also focusing on its accessory offerings, could be the key to its comeback and future success in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.