David Koma's Pre-Fall 2026 collection for Blumarine delves into the captivating charm of Venice, transforming its ancient allure into a modern sartorial expression. This collection is a tribute to the city's mysterious nights and opulent atmosphere, blending historical romanticism with a distinct contemporary edge.
Venetian Whispers: A Collection of Dark Romance and Allure
The Artistic Embrace of Venice: Koma's Muse
For this season, designer David Koma found himself deeply inspired by the timeless enchantment of Venice, a city renowned for captivating even the most pragmatic souls. He confessed to being completely drawn in by its nocturnal mystique and its sophisticated, shadowy glamour, stating that the city "brings out the artist in me."
Echoes of Fetish and Control: Influences and Silhouettes
Koma delved into a rich tapestry of Venetian symbolism and historical elegance, incorporating masked festivities, sophisticated decadence, and a touch of fetishistic allure, all meticulously woven into Blumarine's darkly romantic fantasy. A 1992 campaign set in Venice by Albert Watson served as a foundational visual reference, complemented by the enduring influence of Helmut Newton's photography, a consistent source of inspiration for the brand. Koma emphasizes that Newton's distinct eroticism is not about mere provocation but about the mastery of control. This philosophy is evident in the collection's pronounced hourglass silhouettes, an evolution of the corsetry he introduced in his initial season with the label. These designs now feature structured mini crinolines, draped in delicate lace, and adorned with intricate gilded buttons shaped like Venetian masks and lion heads, reimagining traditional emblems with a Blumarine twist.
Thorns and Capes: Reinterpreting Classic Motifs
The brand's signature sentimental roses are reimagined with a more fierce and thorny character, appearing as dramatic 3D plissé rosettes on revealing minidresses or intricately beaded onto bias-cut, sheer georgette slips. These slips are artfully layered beneath flowing capes, which subtly nod to the traditional Venetian tabarro. Fluffy shearling boleros, featuring the diamond intarsia patterns of carnival costumes, are styled over minimal lace briefs and are playfully repurposed as luxurious blankets draped over gondola seats, adding a touch of whimsical utility.
Nocturnal Drama: The City's Seductive Narrative
Further enhancing the boudoir-inspired drama, black lingerie bodysuits are artfully concealed beneath sweeping long coats. These ensembles are dramatically staged against the crumbling grandeur of ancient palazzos or emerge from the Venetian fog at dawn, a time when the city feels most clandestine. A vibrant flame red punctuates a dominant palette of black and white, occasionally interspersed with the muted dusty pinks and pale blues reminiscent of aged Venetian stuccoes. For Koma, Venice is not merely a setting for romantic serenades or graceful courtships; it embodies raw desire, unbridled lust, and the thrilling peril of losing oneself in its intricate, winding calli, ideally before the morning light reveals one's slightly askew five-inch heels.
