This article delves into the intricate history and cultural impact of streetwear, drawing insights from Tyler Watamanuk's book, "Bigger Than Fashion." It explores how this influential fashion movement emerged from various subcultures, navigated its rise to prominence, and continues to shape the contemporary fashion landscape, even as it faces new challenges.
Unpacking the Enduring Legacy of Streetwear: A Cultural Phenomenon
The Genesis of a Movement: From Underground to Global Influence
Tyler Watamanuk embarked on a meticulous journey to chronicle the origins of streetwear for his latest publication, Bigger Than Fashion. His research unveiled that this style didn't spring from a single source but rather from a confluence of distinct, previously unrelated subcultures such as graffiti artistry, surfing, skateboarding, and punk music. These diverse currents gradually converged, creating a powerful new aesthetic. Watamanuk masterfully weaves together the narratives of pivotal figures like James Jebbia, founder of Supreme, and Shawn Stüssy, the visionary behind Stüssy, to illustrate how streetwear ascended to redefine fashion throughout the 2010s, and now stands at a pivotal juncture in its post-peak trajectory.
Symbolism and Subversion: The Early Days of Streetwear Design
Streetwear's foundational ethos was rooted in a rebellious spirit, challenging established norms. Yet, its pioneers possessed a deep appreciation for historical and cultural antecedents. Watamanuk highlights the iconic T-shirt collaboration between graffiti artists Futura and Stash in the early 1990s, which featured a Phillies blunt design. Prior to this, Stash produced T-shirts in his own home, emblazoned with imagery of Rustoleum and Krylon spray paint cans. These designs operated on an exclusive, insider knowledge basis. Watamanuk recounts, "Wearing one of these in a social setting would instantly connect you with other graffiti artists who recognized the symbol." He observes a stark contrast to today's hyper-merchandized world, where even common brands engage in fashion collaborations without raising an eyebrow. Back then, such crossovers were virtually non-existent. Many nascent designers transformed symbols and references from their authentic environments into fashion statements.
Evolution and Expansion: Streetwear's Journey to the Mainstream
The cultural exchange among designers, artists, skateboarders, musicians, and graffiti writers flourished, whether through interactions in influential stores or on nascent online forums. Watamanuk points out that today, the clandestine nature of this culture has largely dissipated, with social media and algorithms democratizing access to every niche interest. Despite its broad appeal, the movement largely remained male-dominated, a fact underscored by the existence of a major brand named Billionaire Boys Club. Watamanuk acknowledges the contributions of women-led labels like Leah MacSweeney's Married to the Mob and Kim Gordon and Daisy von Furth's X-Girl, which catered to female streetwear enthusiasts. However, he notes that these brands often lacked the widespread audience and opportunities enjoyed by their male counterparts.
The Commercialization Conundrum: From Authenticity to Enterprise
For designers of the Gen X era, commercial compromise was anathema. However, as streetwear's popularity soared and it gained acceptance within luxury circles, this perspective rapidly transformed. Watamanuk suggests that many of these brands initially did not foresee the significant financial success that lay ahead. He aptly states, "It's easier to claim you don't want to sell out when nobody is asking you to." This shift marked a significant turning point, challenging the core values of the movement's early days.
Blurring Boundaries: Streetwear and Luxury Converge
The distinction between streetwear and high fashion began to dissolve, with streetwear designers presenting collections on runways and venturing into traditional ready-to-wear. Watamanuk explains this phenomenon by stating that designers "felt they were not being taken seriously by the institution, and wanted to prove themselves." Concurrently, luxury brands introduced streetwear-inspired lines and products. This relationship sometimes felt more exploitative than mutually beneficial, leading to an increasing homogenization in fashion. Watamanuk draws a parallel to the Spider-Man meme, where everyone points at each other, noting that much of this interchange was driven by figures like Virgil Abloh, who became a guiding light due to his immense visibility. This created a dynamic where it became difficult to discern who was influencing whom. Doubts surfaced regarding the longevity of luxury streetwear, with Abloh himself expressing uncertainty in his diary about whether it would remain a fleeting trend or be fully integrated into luxury fashion.
The Billion-Dollar Breakthrough: Supreme's Impact
A pivotal moment in this convergence occurred in 2017 when The Carlyle Group, a private equity firm, acquired a 50 percent stake in Supreme. The revelation that the iconic streetwear brand was valued at a billion dollars served as a stark realization that branded T-shirts and hoodies could indeed be incredibly lucrative. This event, Watamanuk describes, was akin to a runaway train, an unstoppable force that solidified streetwear's place as a powerful commercial entity.
The Legacy Continues: Streetwear's Enduring Influence
Many early streetwear innovators eventually became established figures within the fashion industry. Abloh's remarkable success with Off-White and his numerous spin-off ventures, coupled with his dedicated online following, led to his appointment as creative director for Louis Vuitton menswear in 2018. More recently, Nigo assumed the role of artistic director at Kenzo, and Pharrell took the helm of Louis Vuitton men's wear in 2023, following Abloh's untimely passing. While streetwear may not currently dominate mainstream fashion discussions as it did pre-COVID, its influence remains undeniable. Despite continued consumer interest in trends like "quiet luxury" and minimalist aesthetics, Watamanuk asserts that the streetwear boom of the 2010s irrevocably altered how we dress today. He cites the enduring popularity of silhouettes like a tailored overcoat paired with sweatpants, a Yankees cap, and sneakers as a testament to this lasting impact.
The Future Landscape: Adaptation and Evolution
Watamanuk believes that streetwear profoundly reshaped the fashion system, leaving an indelible mark that will continue to be felt for years to come. The evidence is visible in department stores and online retailers, where luxury brands now boast extensive men's sneaker departments and continue to feature graphic hoodies, tees, and logo-centric designs—the quintessential elements of streetwear—as fundamental staples. For many streetwear labels, the current period is one of careful observation. The initial euphoria of boundless growth has been tempered by experience, leading to a more cautious approach. Watamanuk notes a shift from earlier discussions about "the next billion-dollar streetwear brand" to a more measured outlook. He highlights Stüssy as a brand that successfully navigates this environment, achieving greater prominence while maintaining its unique identity and appeal. With trends like "recession pop" and vintage styles resurfacing, the present moment may well be ripe for a new wave of innovative labels to challenge conventions once more.
