Stefano Gallici's latest Pre-Fall collection for Ann Demeulemeester marks his sophomore effort as creative director, a role he navigates with a blend of respectful nod to the brand's rich heritage and a bold, individualistic vision. This collection, only his second, highlights his evolving instincts within the dynamic and often demanding landscape of contemporary fashion. Instead of merely echoing past successes, Gallici crafts a narrative that is both personal and deeply resonant with the brand’s rock-inspired ethos, yet distinctly his own.
Gallici, a notable music aficionado, naturally aligns with Ann Demeulemeester's historical ties to rock culture and its iconic figures. However, his approach transcends a simple homage; he actively seeks new sources of inspiration that speak to his own aesthetic and that of his generation. This includes muses like model and musician Jamie Bochert, and actor Johnny Depp, emphasizing an 'attitude' rather than a rigid character. His vision for pre-fall, traditionally a more understated season, challenges convention by focusing on impactful, enduring pieces rather than fleeting trends, proving that practicality can indeed coexist with bold artistic statements.
The collection skillfully reworks Ann Demeulemeester's iconic elements, particularly its famed relaxed silhouettes. Gallici introduces a refined edge, drawing inspiration from what he describes as "Nick Cave's archetypal tailoring." This results in sharp yet comfortably draped suiting, alongside innovative interpretations of trousers with neat flares. The romantic Victorian gothic touches, a brand signature, reappear as detachable lace collars on flowing sheer velvet devoré gowns. Napoleonic-inspired jackets in pinstriped wool and a clever revival of a classic '96/'97 slouchy blazer further bridge the gap between historical elegance and contemporary cool. Deconstructed elements in varsity bombers add a playful dialogue, seamlessly merging the brand's past with its present.
In this collection, Gallici deftly balances honoring the brand's storied past with forging a new path. His designs are characterized by an intrinsic blend of commanding presence and an air of effortless cool, epitomizing a confident and sophisticated aesthetic that continues to evolve the Ann Demeulemeester legacy. The collection is a testament to his ability to infuse new life into a revered fashion house while staying true to its rebellious spirit.
