Dressing the Part: How Costume Design Brought Elizabeth Zott's Transformative Journey to Life

Keywords:Costume DesignPeriod DramaLessons in ChemistryBrie LarsonMirren Gordon-Crozier, a seasoned costume designer, has collaborated with actress Brie Larson on four projects over the past decade, including Larson's breakout role in the 2013 independent drama "Short Term 12." When Larson's next lead part was in a period TV series, Gordon-Crozier was both excited and apprehensive, knowing the challenges that came with recreating the fashion and style of a bygone era.

Bringing the 1950s to Life Through Wardrobe

Channeling Off-Screen Style Icons

Gordon-Crozier drew inspiration from the off-duty wardrobes of iconic 1950s actresses like Grace Kelly, Lauren Bacall, and Audrey Hepburn. She delved into research to uncover the casual, everyday looks these stars favored, using that as a foundation to build the wardrobe for the series' protagonist, Elizabeth Zott.

Challenging Gender Norms with Pants

One of the defining moments in the series is when Zott, a chemist-turned-cooking show host, steps onto the set of her show wearing pants, defying the strict dress code that women were expected to adhere to at the time. Gordon-Crozier explains that this pivotal scene was a deliberate choice, as Zott seized the opportunity to assert her independence and challenge the gender norms of the era.

Evolving Wardrobe, Evolving Character

As Zott navigates her personal and professional transformations throughout the series, her wardrobe evolves to reflect these changes. Gordon-Crozier used color, particularly different shades of green, to mark these transitions, while also incorporating more masculine elements in the early stages before Zott's style became more refined and feminine as she found success on television.

Crafting Couture Lab Coats

One of the most notable aspects of Zott's wardrobe was her custom-made lab coats, which Gordon-Crozier designed with inspiration from the iconic silhouettes of Christian Dior. Rather than opting for a standard lab coat, the costume designer wanted to create a series of visually striking, couture-inspired pieces that would reflect Zott's growing confidence and flair for the dramatic.

Sourcing and Crafting Period-Accurate Pieces

Sourcing and creating the wardrobe for "Lessons in Chemistry" was a meticulous process, as Gordon-Crozier had to find or construct pieces that were true to the 1950s aesthetic. This included sourcing vintage knitwear, making custom skirts, and carefully selecting fabrics that captured the color palettes and textures of the era.

Embracing the Discomfort of 1950s Fashion

Gordon-Crozier acknowledges that the women's clothing of the 1950s was often restrictive and uncomfortable, but she saw this as an integral part of the character's journey. The discomfort of the garments helped inform the way the actors carried themselves, adding an authenticity to the performances and the overall storytelling.Through her thoughtful and innovative approach to costume design, Mirren Gordon-Crozier played a crucial role in bringing the world of "Lessons in Chemistry" to life, using wardrobe as a powerful tool to explore the complexities of gender, identity, and personal transformation.